1997 Honda Civic Check Engine Light, Speedometer

I suspect the brushes ($5) in the alternator have worn down too much. At 1500 to 1800 rpm, the brushes start to bounce, lights start to pulsate, and the electrical system gets erratic. After testing for codes, get the alternator tested. Most auto parts stores will do these tests for free.

For the serious do-it-yourselfer, rebuilding alternators is fun and inexpensive:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post666293

How many miles are on the car?

Tgm,
Thank you for the reply. I have 112,000 miles on the car. I will begin to call around and see if any care parts place will do code look-up for me and check alt. If possible. I'd love to remove the alt. If this is the problem but it sure looks like a bear to get at. I would assume it has to be removed from the underside? I do have the entire shop manual for the 97 civic.

Yes, you are clearly in the zone when alternators go. I think your problems just happened to coincide with wet weather and were not a function of it.

Removal is from below, but it's not too bad. Here's how:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post224856

Good to hear about your self-help efforts. Well, it sounds more serious than just water/moisture on plugs. DID you check plug wells for water? You really need to have the OBD Code(s) read; most national chain Auto Parts Stores will do it free; many even give you a little paper printout. [BTW: with some code reading equipment the codes are erased upon reading; so Engine Light may disappear for a day or so, but will return shortly after engine running]. The Fault Codes can also be found on various web sources; just Google the OBD Code ### and you will surly get many hits. Anyway, maybe leads back to what tx---- was saying; first get those Codes, then start hoping for simple cure. Remember when explaining to mechanics, be sure to relate that heavy rain may have splached up into hood. ALSO FYI: Battery voltage with engine OFF should read 12V; with Engine Running that same reading should be around 14V; that is simple check than Alternator system is functioning OK.

My ANS above was because I missed some recent Posts (think they were removed from thread). Anyway TGM has more experience with the techncial details and has you looking in the right areas. Hope those Fault Codes lead you in same direction. Let us know what it turns out to be; we all learn by hearing specific cases.

Just got back from the auto parts store. Codes given : P1298, P0501, P0135, P0141. I will do some looking on the web for definition of these codes. Tech was able to give brief note on each they are: P1298 (Fuel?) , P0501 (speed sensor), P0135 (O2 sensor), P0141 (O2 sensor). Tech also checked battery (ok) , and alternator (tech said it was shot) giving low voltage to the battery. I am wondering if all the codes are due to the alt. Problem or is there more than one issue. I will get under the car to determine if I can/ want to get this thing out of the car.(alternator) If I am able to remove and replace I have some questions going forward. Will the codes go away? Will the check engine light go off and reset? How do I go about being sure the belt is the correct tension? I am very grateful for the help I have received here and I am willing to try some more before giving up...but I must be honest...with the cold and uncertainty of my skills on replacing the alternator I am concerned that I may getting in over my head. I was hoping for a relay replacement or O2 sensor fix...something a bit easier. If it were summer and I didn't need the car this week I would love to learn how to replace the alternator...just getting cold feet I guess.

Have a shop replace the alternator for you. Many of the codes, then, will likely go away. You can try and clear the ECM by removing the Backup Fuse, in the underhood fuse box, for 10 seconds or disconnecting the negative battery cable for 10 seconds.

After looking at each code, I think they will all go away, after the alternator is replaced.

Again, you have done well to investigate and learn; far too many Drivers are less eager to learn - and Save $$$. But I believe all those codes could result from erratic electrical system (or water short circuiting). Ask TGM, but id remove negative. Battery cable for a minute that will erase Cdoesfrom OBD memory; but codes will return withing days of running if problems/causes still present. First off you need to get Alternator Prices (I'm not sure many shops rebuild; some ALT are throw-aways (TGM can advise). If go with Rebuilt ALt, I prefer Bosch brand due to quality and warranty. New from Honda will be top notch for $$$$; Honfda may also sell their Rebuild ALT. Labor should be easily set by Mechanic as not hard to simply replace. Wait to see what TGM says. BUT if you plan on keeping car, don't go too cheap; still Honda or Bosch Rebuilt seems OK compromise. LAST thought: Don't forget the water may have gotten into "wiring harnesses", and MAY still be there and can cause future problems (unpredictable). Suggest keep garaged and idle engine with hood closed to heat up engine compartemnt and hopefully dry out most remaining moisture. Maybe if take to Dealer/Mechanic for Alt replacement can CHECK out electrical wiring system for obvious short circuiting and give some assurances, but doubt they will guarntee "wiring." Good luck and keep us posted.

Here's where you can find out what each code stands for:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post325940

Treespectro, Forgot to tell you the Battery is only thing Starting and Running your car. So if you start, drive or idle it is draining Battery. So Recharge Battery overnight if you have charger. If not save Battery for driving to mechanic for Alternator work. Don't drive at night since Lights added Battery drain.

And if you Recharge battery, suggest disconnecting Battery Cables just in case short circuit now exists within Alternator or wiring harness (better be sure and not cause other damage).

Edd, txgrease,

Both of you have been very helpful in guiding me to try to obtain a fix of my car. I could not have asked for better help. ... Thank you. I made a decision this afternoon....I'm taking it to the shop for work. I left them a letter as to my belief that it is the alternator. I'll be sure to update you as to the findings. I am always hesitant to bring to the shop but at this point my need of the car outweighs my desire to get the job done myself...unfortunately my wallet will pay the price. One positive -- I've found a great sight that I can utilize from this point forward...not doubt it will continue to pay-off! Thanks again...who needs Click and Clack!