Hi All,

I recently had a problem with my distributor on my Honda Civic VX. The car would sputter through the gears and stall when depressing the gas pedal at times. I took it to the garage and they said the distributor needed replaced and would do it for $800 bucks.

I couldn't swallow that and took the car home and put and new rotor button and cap on it and it seemed to have fix the problem as the button and point were worn on the cap. The engine purred like a kitten.

The following day I realized there was an oil leak from from the cam shaft orifice as the O-ring on the distributor housing was not replaced. I bought an O ring and pulled the distributor to replace it. Reattached the distributor and went to start the engine. This time the car would crank but not start. I tried starting the car several more times until I drained the amps in the battery and had to recharge it.

I have also had many sporadic occurences where the engine light will come on and off. I stop an pause and I may not see the light again for months, sometimes it may come on every day or two and then go for months without displaying. Could it be my ECM?

What should I try next? Buy a new distributor and replace it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

txgreasemonkey

There's a real possibility the ECM is failing intermittently. Perform the K-Test on the ECM, especially when the Check Engine Light comes on:

Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

rangercoach

TX all of your postings are great! Thanks for the information and I am going to try to perform this K-Test. I put a re-manufactured dizzy on and the car starts and is running. I have never adjusted timing but know that I will need to do that.

I also notice the engine is idling at above 1K RPM's. More like 1.2 RPM's. Is there a idle adjustment on this car to adjust. I tried advancing and retarding the dizzy and the RPM's dropped some when retarding but not below 1K.

Any tips? Thanks so much!

txgreasemonkey

It may be that the throttle cable is out of adjustment. Use two 12 mm open-end wrenches to make necessary adjustment. Slightly back-off the outside nut and tighten the inside nut. Final idle speed should be around 700 rpm, with engine at operating temperature. After you set the idle speed, attach a timing light:

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