My son dropped his car in my driveway about a month ago. He had just had the fuel tank replaced but was also having problem keeping the car running and it would stall at traffic lights. He asks them to check it out. They said they would have to change the tank first before the engine could be checked.
When he went back to see were they were landed he was told that for 3000.00 dollars they could fix the car. Naturally he wasn’t prepared to pay that kind of money.
I’m not a mechanic but ill try to help him out.
First the car wouldn’t start at all. I checked the Main Relay.
When the ignition switch is turned to on The switch makes 3 to 4 clicks the engine light comes on but I could not here the fuel pump come on. So I checked to see if any current was present at the fuel pump there was a pour connection which I fixed, tried again and could here the fuel pump come on for 2 seconds.
Tried to star the car it would start but die after a few seconds.
Second checked to see if there was fuel pressure at he fuel filter by removing the service bolt and it check out ok. I changed the Fuel filter anyway.
Third I checked all the spark plugs for spark all plugs had sparks. After reading all the great information on this site I noticed that this car is equipped with an ECU. I checked to see if the ECU had a Code, which turned out to be Code 16 (Injector problem). I went to a junkyard and got a complete throttle body injector’s included from a Model just like his that just rolled into the yard on its own power.
Forth I changed the injectors and there was a problem in the main injector.
I reset the ECU and started the car. To my surprise the car started but unfortunately it runs at fast idle (2000Rpm and up) and I can’t get it to Idle and looks like white smoke comes out of the exhaust.
I detached the acceleration cable so it wouden't interfere with the idle speed started the engine but got the same result readjusted the cable to specification. Re-started the engine again with the same result but this time the ECU Code showed trouble code 16 again.
I reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative from the battery for 30 second. This time I disconnected the EACV to see if the ECU would give me a different code and it did (Code 14 Electronic air control EACV)
I reset the ECU again and started the engine same problem engines revs at about 2000rpms no idle and white smoke still comes out of the exhaust.
I replaced the ECU from another car and it gave the same result.
Any one has any Ideas what I should be checking next. Could the ECU have a problem is there anyway to have it checked out of the car. What else could cause a fast Idle condition.
Regards
Rjohns

rjohns

what are the steps to check the timing?

CroCivic91

Generally, to see if the timing belt has jumped a tooth, you should turn the crankshaft until you see a white mark on the crank shaft sprocket align with a pointer on the timing belt cover (it's a sort of a "pin" sticking out of a timing belt cover, just above a hole where the timing belt tensioner would be). Now you should remove the upper part of the timing belt cover to access the cam shaft sprocket. There is a work "UP" written on it, and 2 horizontal marks (lines) are made on it. The lines should line up with the valve cover surface. If they don't (and the word "UP" is pointing up), then your timing belt has jumped a tooth or two.

Or if you have access to a timing gun, use it. I do not know how to use it since i never did, but i guess you could have a shop do it for you.

rjohns

Had to clean the idle controller and at the same time decided to clean all the lings on the throttle body.
When I put it back together and started the car that’s when I noticed that
the converter was getting RED Hot.
Do you know how I can adjust the throttle body?
Believe that to much gas is being set to the cylinders and not enough time to burn up before it reaches the converter and finishes burning there.

CroCivic91

There is no such thing as "adjusting the throttle body". If you mean that your fuel injectors are pumping too much gas, that cannot be controlled in any way other than increasing your fuel pressure WAY too much, or messing with your ECU settings, which you cannot do if you do not buy another (tunable) ECU or don't burn yourself a chip and do some soldering on your current ECU...besides, since you have a DPFI, i don't think you can control it in any way.

Did you check your timing?

rjohns

To fix the idle problem I had to dismantle some of the throttle parts to get to
some grim that was stopping the mechanism from working properly.
When I put it all back together and started the engine that’s when I noticed that the catalytic converter was getting red hot.
Noticed that the engine was getting to much fuel or to rich air and fuel mixture.
Then I noticed that on the side of the throttle body there seem to be a device that controls the airflow (three wires attach to this device) on the accelerator shaft. My Haynes manual doesn’t explain this apparatus, so does anyone knows who to adjust this device.
When the throttle is almost closed the measurement from the bottom and middle terminal read 719/720 ohms when in the middle it reads 1.820 ohms give or takes and when the throttle is fully opened now the middle and top terminals the reading is 918-920.
Right now the car starts, idles very low and will hesitates if the accelerator pedal is pressed to rapidly even a few backfires.