I have a 1989 Honda Civic that won't start, it just clicks when you turn it on. The lights go on, and everything else seems to work, but it won't start. I happened to be on the phone with my pastor, as I was supposed to be taking him something at the time, and he said it was the cylinoid, where the key goes in. I took the plastic off the steering column and saw where the ignition is and where the key goes in and all that and if it is that, I see no reason I couldn't change it.... Does this sound like something that would be? It has done this before several time. On those occasions I thought it was the battery, since someone had taken the battery out and so I got out and beat on the battery, but this in effect meant that I took the key out and put it back in and started it. I just learned my mom has had it happen and she said that she would have to take the key out and put it back in to make it work. Well it isn't working now, not by taking the key out, putting it in, wiggling it around, no trick I try is getting it to start for anything. The battery seems to work, the car was broke into recently so the radio is gone , but the lights come on, so all I can say is that it clicks. I hope that this is detailed enough to help you. Thanks!

karl burton

i have a 1991 honda accord and it want start. it not getting gas to the intake. where is the computer located to reset it.

Aldajean

The key clicks, the gas goes, everything 'works', but the ignitions. I get in, stick the key in, the lights go on, and the gas will eventually flood if I don't be careful, I turn the key and it goes "click click click click click".... It used to be if I take the key out and put it back in then it would work, but now it doesn't work. The lights all go on and everything like that, you can tell the gas is going, cause it will start smelling and over flood and such, but it isn't 'turning over'. But it isn't the starter. It is like it is in the steering column it'self. But when I took that apart, I couldn't get the ignition out of the column to look at it to see if it was broken.

txgreasemonkey

. If the starter motor does not crank the engine over, but "clicks" instead, place the battery on a charger and follow the directions in the link below:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post235560


. If the "click" is the main relay, which is located just above the under-dash fuse box, then you need to perform the tests outlined in Sections A and B below:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post219438

Since you need to establish a "known-good baseline," it's a good idea to begin by ensuring the battery is fully charged and all fuses are good. With that baseline knowledge, you move out from there and perform the other tests.

The link below explains how to properly check all under-dash and under-hood fuses:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post252145

Aldajean

Thanks, I will check all the fuses. But from what I have found out so far, it can only be the ignition cylinder or something to do with the ignition, as the electricial isn't a problem and the gas isn't a problem and the battery isn't a problem. I am disabled, so I am on a fixed income and am desperated trying to do this myself rather then take it in to someone to have them charge me to do it. However I do know that I have my limits and have to hand it over to someone who knows more then me before I do something that will cost me more to fix then if I had just handed it over in the first place. My problem is that I guess what I am trying to do is more or less trying to get a confermation that what I was told might be the probem by one person is what someone else thinks it is, someone who isn't just a pastor but has some knowledge in these things, so that before I start replacing ignition key clyinders and things I have something to go on.

Since this has been an ongoing problem with the key, when we take it out, put it in, take it out, I honestly do not think it has anything to do with fuses as the key has always been a deciding factor. We did think it was a battery thing, as stated before, but I think that was a red herring.

Thanks for your time.

txgreasemonkey

It sounds like you think the ignition switch needs replacing, which is not too difficult or expensive to do. There are links online that will show you how. Here's a brief explanation of how to do it:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post224652

Here's what it looks like and costs:

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

Aldajean

I THINK that is what it is, but was hoping that if I discribed it to you, you might afirm say no, one way or the other... you know, if it doesn't sound that way when you do that, then you would know it, I wouldn't... or so I hoped. Do you have any of these links?

txgreasemonkey

Now that I have a clearer understanding of your situation, it could definitely be just a bad ignition switch. Your description of have to jiggle the key is a classic sign of wear. Here's a good link on how to replace the ignition switch:

How to replace the ignition switch

Remember to disconnect the negative battery cable first.

Aldajean

Thank you so much! I went out and took apart the ignition switch and found that the bottom was not pitted, as in the web site, but that the top plate, the bumps were not bumped, but had been 'smoothed' down a bit. Would that be causing my problem? I couldn't tell from the photo on the site, but I could tell that there was wear on the 'moveable' part of my ignition switch. And a lot of brown 'greasy' type stuff all on the inside of it.

txgreasemonkey

Absolutely--not making contact. Your switch has done well to last all these years and now it's due for replacement. Good job! To save money, you might check prices with a local salvage yard--just check the switch and harness over carefully first. Make sure it's identical.