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New Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 01:57 AM
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My Whirlpool Gas Range keeps tripping the breaker
My oven is about a year and a half old. I haven't had a single problem with my oven until about 4 weeks ago. I set the temperature to 350 and suddenly while heating it trips the breaker. And I cannot turn the breaker back on until the oven cools. I tried setting a lower temperature and it did the same thing.
What could be causing the breaker to trip.. There are 3 plugs on this circuit. I have my microwave and coffee pot plugged in them.. I believe my oven doesn't use that much to cause the over load. Or it would have done that from the beginning..
I called Whirlpool and they were no help.. They said call someone out to your house.
I just want to know if my oven is shot and need a new one or can the electronic stuff that controls the temperature be replaced and is it worth it.. I didn't pay more than 400 dollars for this and I have already put another 100 into it to replace the front glass..
Here is my Model # SF315PEPW2 SERIAL # VES4107563
I looked on Whirlpools web site and they don't list the electronic stuff on there.
Can anyone offer any ideas??
Thanks so much!!
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Uber Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 05:11 AM
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It is possible the problem is in the thermostat or its wiring. Best thing would be to check its circuit with an ohm meter after the breaker kicks off before it cools enough to reset.
If you don't have an ohm meter, perhaps you could as a trial, unplug the wires to the thermostat and see if the over will heat up without kicking off the breaker. If it does, carefully examine the thermostat and its wires and replace anything that looks bad.
You could also try heating the oven up with the other stuff unplugged to make sure it is the oven.
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New Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 11:16 AM
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Thanks for your reply. Where do I find the thermostat? I did try heating it up with the other things unplugged and it did the same thing. I do have a ohm meter so I will give this a whirl.. Thanks again so much!
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Uber Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 11:34 AM
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It should be some sort of a doodad in the oven or the outside wall with a couple of wires running to the controls.
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New Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by labman
It should be some sort of a doodad in the oven or the outside wall with a couple of wires running to the controls.
I was just looking for a new thermostat just to see how much it would cost to replace it.. Is there another name it might be called? Whirlpool has no parts for my oven.. How ridiculous is that! I found one place that has some parts but a lot of them seem to back ordered and some are no longer available. My oven isn't that old.. They are going to force me to buy a new oven.. That is total crap.
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New Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 12:40 PM
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I haven't done anything to my oven yet and now I cannot even plug it in without it tripping the breaker. I am very frustrated now.. I have 7 kids to cook for and no stove..
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Ultra Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by niteowlgirl72
I haven't done anything to my oven yet and now I cannot even plug it in without it tripping the breaker. I am very frustrated now.. I have 7 kids to cook for and no stove..
If the breaker is knocking just by plugging the stove in then I would look closely at the plug and cord going to the stove, sounds like a problem there.
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New Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 12:49 PM
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What do I look for? It is strange because the first time this happened, I was able to just plug it back in and use the top cooking surface. It doesn't make sense to me.
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Ultra Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by niteowlgirl72
what do I look for? It is strange because the first time this happened, I was able to just plug it back in and use the top cooking surface. It doesn't make sense to me.
First make sure that everything on the stove is turned off, if the breaker knocks when you plug it up, odds are something is wrong with the plug or wire going to the stove, or where it connects to the stove. I would look for any signs of heat, blackened connections, nicks in the insulation on the wire that could be touching metal. Since you own a ohm/volt meter you can use it to help find your problem, make sure you have power at the outlet, if that's good then with the stove unplugged check for continuity on the wire. May have a ground where the wire goes to the stove. Let me know.
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New Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 01:23 PM
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Okay thanks will do. I appreciate your help tremendously..
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Uber Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 05:14 PM
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I am not sure how your stove controls the temperature of the oven. It could be a thermostat, a thermocouple, or a temperature probe. Somehow it tells the electronic brain the oven is up to temperature and shuts off the gas. I would look for a short in that circuit. All the burners have electronic controls and won't light unless the fancy controls are working? On my mother's gas range, the only thing that used electricity was the light and timer.
One of the reasons I answer few of the questions in appliances is that so many of the new ones have the DIY unfriendly electronic controls. Before you give up on the stove, call a technician.
A long as I can find the parts, I think I will keep fixing up our old ones with the electromechanical controls.
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Ultra Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by labman
I am not sure how your stove controls the temperature of the oven. It could be a thermostat, a thermocouple, or a temperature probe. Somehow it tells the electronic brain the oven is up to temperature and shuts off the gas. I would look for a short in that circuit. All the burners have electronic controls and won't light unless the fancy controls are working? On my mother's gas range, the only thing that used electricity was the light and timer.
One of the reasons I answer few of the questions in appliances is that so many of the new ones have the DIY unfriendly electronic controls. Before you give up on the stove, call a technician.
A long as I can find the parts, I think I will keep fixing up our old ones with the electromechanical controls.
Labman, that particular model has a oven sensor that plugs in at the bottom rear, $62.95 I might add. With the breaker knocking when she just plugs it in, not turned on, wouldn't that lead us to bad outlet, or power cable? Cord for that thing is $30.00.
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Ultra Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 06:38 PM
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Niteowlgril72::: -Firest of all you have a electriotel Short IN the stove leave it unpluged until you have a appliance repair man( OR REPAIR WOMAN) can service it (DONT GO AND GET SHOCKED) That's 220 You are messing with. For Your information
, the thermostate is inside the oven, There is one copper looking tube like going to it NO WIRES< the tube goes to the thermoste switchup on the control panel of the stove. Now what I would Susgest, if you can get a new stove, since you have found out there are no parts no longer available, for the stove you have. It's probley going to cost to have this one repaired. Still check though . Good luck ,GOD Bless. ::: F.B.E.
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New Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by parttime
Labman, that particular model has a oven sensor that plugs in at the bottom rear, $62.95 I might add. With the breaker knocking when she just plugs it in, not turned on, wouldn't that lead us to bad outlet, or power cable? cord for that thing is $30.00.
Where did you find those parts at?
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New Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Flying Blue Eagle
Niteowlgril72::: -Firest of all you have a electriotel Short IN the stove leave it unpluged untill you have a appliance repair man( OR REPAIR WOMAN) can service it (DONT GO AND GET SHOCKED) THATS 220 You are messing with. For Your information
, the thermostate is inside the oven, Ther is one copper looking tube like going to it NO WIRES< the tube goes to the thermoste switchup on the control panel of the stove. Now what I would Susgest, if you can get a new stove, since you have found out there are no parts no longer available, for the stove you have. It's probley going to cost to have this one repaired. Still check though . Good luck ,GOD Bless. ::: F.B.E.
Yes, it is unplugged.. Thanks so much for your help.. I looked at the thermostat sensor rod thing and it is like silver or greyish. I cannot find any parts for this model on whirlpools website and another site I found has stupid parts like screws for $10.. It is amazing what people charge for menial things.
Yeah it is going to cost too much to have this one repaired..
Thanks all for your help.. I have determined to get a new range..
Blessings too all!
Niteowlgirl
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Uber Member
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Nov 8, 2007, 09:42 PM
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Before you give up, have you tried this or other similar sites? Part Results
Since the problem seems to have changed, it is possible it is in the cord. It is also possible the breaker having tripped too many times, now trips without a short circuit. Is it OK with the stove unplugged, but with other things in use?
If it is a bad cord, I see no reason why you couldn't find the problem and fix it yourself.
Oh, buy the way, Flying Blue Eagle, It is a gas range, 120 volts, not 220 volts as you said, or 240 as electric ranges actually are. People shouldn't answer questions they haven't read.
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Ultra Member
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Nov 9, 2007, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by niteowlgirl72
Where did you find those parts at?
Those parts are available at Sears Parts Department ( I think the # is 1-800-326-1557) I would try and be sure what you need before buying a bunch of parts. If a hairdryer or lamp will work in the outlet that the stove plugs into, I would check the cord closely, read it with your meter cause it could be grounded. Have you ever felt a shock when using the stove?
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Ultra Member
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Nov 9, 2007, 08:55 AM
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Whirlpool SF315PEPW2 Parts List
This is the site I was looking at your ovens parts, look on the chasis diagram. Good luck
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New Member
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Nov 9, 2007, 11:10 AM
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Is there another name for thermostat rod thing? I cannot seem to find that part on the diagrams..
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New Member
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Nov 9, 2007, 11:15 AM
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That oven sensor isn't the part that I need.. Or at least it is in the wrong location.
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