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ChitoandLeon · Jun 5, 2009, 12:33 AM

I'm an idiot with fixing things, but I followed the instructions on this thread, and 2 1/2 hours and $29 later, my dryer is quiet again. There's really nothing about this project that's all that hard, just a number of things that take a little figuring out (kind of tricks of the trade). I bet I could do it in less than half the time if I did it again.

For nonexpert, it sounds like you found the back side of the drum bearing - on the back of the dryer, in the middle, there's a little metal plate about 2 inches wide and about 1/2 inch high that runs horizontally, there's probably a little metal tab sticking out below it, and it has a hole in the middle. If you look in that hole, you'll see a little ball, that's the back side of the drum bearing, if you could go through that metal ball and inside your dryer, you'd be in the cradle that's referred to above, so if that's where you're putting the grease, then you're greasing the bearing.

Booalready · Jun 13, 2009, 09:46 AM

Originally Posted by applguy

I don't see why you couldn't fix it yourself...it's not really that difficult, but it can really be a bonus if you can have someone help you hold things together at one point. . . .

I just made an account so I could come here and thank you Applguy! I printed your instructions and ordered the part and it worked!

Just to diagnose it would have cost 20$ more than the price of the parts alone (not including labor). You saved me so much money! Thank you again!

sketts · Jun 25, 2009, 08:45 PM

I would like to mention that for those of you on this thread that are dealing with the kenmore stacking laundry center (I believe that the GE is the same unit), if you are only spraying teflon lube or WD40 on the small metal ball on the back of the dryer, you are not lubricating the bearing or solving the problem, you are only silencing the indicator that tells you that the rear drum bearing (which is composed entirely of UHMW plastic) has worn out of limits.

I say this only because I was doing the same thing, and have just replaced the rear bearing, thankfully before any real damage was done. Check out

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/applia...ble-30786.html

sketts

kishoreln · Jun 26, 2009, 07:00 PM

Hi Applguy,

I too have a Frigidaire fde216res1 , I followed your instructions but got stuck at the point where I have to lift the drum for inspecting the bearings. I thought it is required to remove the back panel to for accessing the bearing and removed a couple of screws. Now when I rotate the drum manually , it makes much horrible noise than earlier. I am not able to pull the drum off as you've mentioned. Awaiting your response.

Lawman49 · Sep 18, 2009, 07:10 PM

Applguy,

Your directions were great and my wife and I replaced the entire kit ($35.00) in one night. A couple of notes... If you replace the main drum support ball/flange... Good luck getting the new screws in.. They are cheap self-tapping screws with phillips heads... I had to start the screws through with vice grips to get them in! In addition to that, I lacerated two fingers on the inside of the back cabinet... Be careful! As for the rest... Pretty much a piece of cake as long as you don't lose that tiny little ball bearing...

Bottom line... It runs like new. Thanks again!

ELF · Sep 19, 2009, 09:18 AM

Besides pre-threading the screws, I have found that when attaching the bearing to the back of the drum, if you don't have anyone to hold it while you start the screws, surprise ! One more use for "Duct Tape." I also have a magnet from an old speaker that I place in the fall path of small screws, etc. sure was nice to find that little ball bearing that got away just sitting there on the magnet!

BestShot · Oct 30, 2009, 05:32 PM

Great advice! I replaced the rear bearing using the rear bearing kit on my GE dryer and the squeak is gone. Also replaced the felt/drum glide and belt, but the bearing was the cause of the squeak. The 3 screws that go through the back of the drum are tough to get in. I finally used a tiny bit of the lubricant that came with the bearing kit and the screws went right in.

Ferf · Oct 31, 2009, 09:57 AM

Thanks Appleguy, we did it too. A word of help to others: Home Depot and/or Lowe's don't carry dryer parts. You will have to find a parts store and get one from there. Our was $60.00 including the tax. (Looks like a $4.00 part- Ha) This will save you some time. It is a 2 person job just for attaching the new bearing part becasuse one person has to hold it on the back of the drum while the other attaches the screws from the inside. Now to start washing the pile of clothes.

CRENA · Nov 23, 2009, 09:29 PM

Hey appleguy... i have a maytag... bout 5 yrs old... do you have directions for that or is it pretty much the same thing... great site, btw! :cool:

CRENA · Nov 23, 2009, 09:31 PM

Originally Posted by applguy

i don't see why you couldn't fix it yourself...it's not really that difficult, but it can really be a bonus if you can have someone help you hold things together at one point. It (the dryer) is serviced from the front. The part number you will likely need is 5303281153. This is a kit that contains every part that could possibly need to be replaced when dealing with a rear drum bearing. First, unplug the dryer from the outlet or remove power at the breaker/fuse panel. To raise the top of the dryer, insert a putty knife into the crack between the top and the front panel and push against the spring clips to release them. There are two clips, anywhere from 23 to 8 inches in from the sides. You should be able to feel the spring tension when you push on them. Push one in slightly, and raise that side, then the same for the other end of the main top. Once the top is up, you will disconnect the wires to the door switch (right side, on the backside of the front panel), if there are 3, mark them somehow to get them back correctly, if only 2 wires, no need as location makes no difference. Then remove the phillips screw holding the yellow tab-looking plastic thing front and center in the top of the front panel. Then remove the 2 screws holding the front panel to the side panels, screw heads are inside the cabinet, screws pointing towards you. Pull the front panel away and lift off the bottom clips to remove. Now remove the belt from the idler pulley. The idler is located right behind the blower/motor unit. Make sure to note how the belt goes around the idler so you get it back on right. Once the belt is free, slide the belt to the back edge of the drum and, using it as a handle (on the top side of the drum), lift straight up to disengage the rear bearing from the cradle. This can be a very tight fit, especially if it worn badly. You may have to pull relatively hard. Once done, the drum will pull out through the front of the cabinet. Now you can see the drum support ball on the back of the drum and the cradle that holds it. Simply keep note of how you remove the cradle from the back wall to reassemble it correctly (this is where 4 hands are better than 2 and don't loose track of the ground bearing from the back). Using a small drop of supplied grease to keep the bearing in the plastic cradle makes reassembly much easier. As far as the post on the back of the drum is concerned, if the new and old parts look absolutely identical, leave it alone and just clean it up good. If you must change it (another place where 4 hands are better than 2), be very careful with the new screws, because they are cheap and the heads strip almost instantly. Put a generous portion of supplied grease into the cradle and reassemble the dryer. Good luck, and if you see something that doesn't look right or confuses you, let me know.

Hey appleguy... I have a maytag... bout 5 yrs old... do you have directions for that or is it pretty much the same thing... great site, by the way!

Alcapone80 · Dec 11, 2009, 08:13 PM

I did change the wheel as appleguy stated also cleaned the dryer from all that lint, however the noise is still there with a new knocking sound.. Help!!

Could it be because I'm missing this tape around this circle that fits into the drum? But in never opened the dryer before and its missing could it have been rubbing off.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e80/dryer2.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e80/dryer1.jpg

Alcapone80 · Dec 11, 2009, 08:17 PM

Also when I tilt the dryer twards its back the noise screaching noise goes away.. it sounds like metal is rubbing on metal

hvac1000 · Dec 11, 2009, 09:35 PM

Yep you need to replace it and it is available in a kit form.

Alcapone80 · Dec 11, 2009, 09:57 PM

I found the problem it's the drum rubbing against the white plastic pin on top. The drum is missing most of the bottom felt. I opened the top while the dryer is on (bad thing to do) but I had to do something I couldn't go to sleep without knowing the source of the noise. So the drum is not balanced and rubs against the white plastic pin...

How can this be solved?
Can the pin be removed? Is it necessary?

hvac1000 · Dec 11, 2009, 11:08 PM

The felt acts like a bearing for the front of the drum. It must be replaced.

lssb · Jan 6, 2010, 07:12 PM

My Westinghouse was squeaking so LOUDLY, so I read all these first and tried the WD-40 before I called the repair person! It worked! Running more quietlying than it has in years!:)

JGINDY27 · Jan 9, 2010, 01:00 PM

Appleguy- Would you think this would be the same problem if it were a Kenmore dryer, DWXR473ET5WW ?

dixiebelle620 · Feb 24, 2010, 11:07 AM

I have a maytag dryer about seven years. Works great except for this high pitch squeeking. Usually after about ten minutes it stops and as long as we don't let it cool down it works. Wnen it first starts it will drive you carzy. Any ideas what it might be would be appreciated.

kayleelyn · Mar 11, 2010, 07:10 AM

Applguy totally saved my dryer but please understand, I read this thread some time ago and ordered the parts back then. Since then, I did not replace the part but instead tried the wd40 trick. It did cover up the noise but do not be fooled to think that it fixes the problem. You are only masking the symptom (the squeak) instead of fixing the problem.

Initially, before I ordered the parts, I took the drum out of my dryer to inspect the parts and see if they looked like they needed replacing. So I could continue to do laundry while waiting (without the squeak) I applied the lubricant to the bearing area and stuck the thing back together.

The wd540 worked so well that I became less enthusiastic about pulling it back apart when the parts did arrive so they sat on the top of my dryer for a few months. First the squeak came back (a little at first then pretty loud... sounded like we had a huge hampster running on a wheel when I dried clothes). After a few months I also noticed the dryer spinning slower and the clothes getting really hot (I think because the air sat on them longer than it should have because the drum was spinning so slow.

Finally, I broke down and pulled it apart. You wouldn't believe the metal round peg that comes out of the back of the drum was now cylindrical rather than round, it had totally melted and changed form. I was definitely on course for burning up my motor if I would have just ignored the symptom and applied more wd40!

When applying the new parts you DEFINITELY need 2 people. My 12 year old son worked fine. It wasn't totally easy but I finished it in one evening. The parts I ordered came with the metal peg part that screws to the back of the drum... PLEASE ADVISE I took a pair of channel locks and pre threaded those screws into the back of that part first because they simply weren't going in any other way. That was the only part that almost made us give up. When I found that other people had to do this on this thread, it saved me again. The belt is sort of a pain to get back on but if you can reach your arm back in there (and most people are stronger than me... I can assure you... also have longer arms and fingers would've helped) and use a screwdriver as a lever to get it up and around the pulleys. I just felt my way around and it worked okay.:)

Now it works like a dream!

Oh, and FYI, I am a mom with little to no experience fixing this sort of stuff... just like to give it a shot first.

mkettelhake1 · Apr 20, 2010, 03:13 PM

Another new registration just to thank you Applguy! Less than an hour to fix, and the parts were delivered quick from PartAdvantage. Not sure if anyone else posted the link for them but here it is for Fridgidaire model FER641F50:
FER641FS0 | Part Advantage : Appliance Model Lookup
Again, many thanks Applguy!:)