I have been working at this thing for about 4 days now and am getting very frustrated. I can get the dryer to run but there is no heat. I tested myself then removed and took the electronic fuses/limiter/high temp cutoff ect to the local appliance shop to verify my tests and they all came back good. I also had the heating element checked for continuity and it has a circuit. The dryer has an electronic board and I think that could be the problem but its an expensive part ($150.00) and the dryer is only 3 years old. I checked the current and I am getting 120 on each hot lead (red & black) and the dryer runs fine otherwise. Can anyone think of anything else to check or try before I buy a $150.00 electronic control panel. Can heating elements ever go out and still have continuity? Please help.

esquire1

Before replacing any parts try cleaning the vent hose from back of dryer to where it exits the house. Then remove the blower housing and clean that area. If all parts tested good, it sounds as if you have an airflow problem. Also check to make sure the blower motor is working.

mcouvillon

Its all clean and clear with the motor spinning the drum and blowing air. I actually have the vent unhooked and blowing out the back into my bedroom just to test. I put a snake through the outer vent and it was clean. The air blows out the back very strong so I don't think thats the problem. However when I first opened the dryer there was lint everywhere. I cleaned it spotless now but still no heat. One interesting thing though. I am only pulling 7 or so amps on one hot wire and almost nothing on the other when the unit is running and set to high heat. I don't think the coils are getting power or there is a bad relay. I tested the high limit thermostat outside the dryer and it is open until I hit it with a lighter. It then shuts off as it should then re-opens a minute or so later. Do you have any other suggestions?

esquire1

Are you getting 220 volts at the terminals

mcouvillon

I get 120 on each of the 2 hot wires (black and red) from the input lines. I have not been able to get a reading at the heating element quick connects because of lack of reach/fear of shock. The manual says to have it running while you test but the drum is spinning so close it looks like I'll slip or get cought while measuring current. I've already been shocked by 110 2x in my life and that was not fun at all. Is there a way to stop the motor from spinning while I test? I'm getting married in a few months and want to make it to the date alive :-)