Hi all,

I'm working on my Frigidaire dryer and was looking for any tips/tricks to finishing my project and came across this site.

I am replacing the rear bearing (it was squealing incredibly loudly, as well as I was having some tiny pieces of clothing get caught between the front of the drum and the front panel and twisting around and around and getting chewed up during the cycle), it appears the drum was slightly off kilter). :eek:

I have already replaced the rear bearing "bracket" on the back wall of the dryer. I had one heck of a time getting the bearing/spindle unscrewed from the back of the drum (the screws were in so tightly that I was starting to strip the phillips "x" on the screws, ). I finally got those out (with the assistance of a couple of light hammer taps - to "loosen" the bite of the screws - as well as some channel-locks - to help twist from the threads of the screws so I wouldn't have to put so much pressure on the "x" on the head of the screw).

Now, I'm trying to screw on the new spindle/bearing/plate on the back of the drum. It seems as though the holes in the plate (for the screws) are only pressed or drilled, but not tapped. The screws stop turning the moment they are introduced into the holes of the plate. I am afraid of (a) stripping the threads on the screws and (b) stripping out the "x" of the phillips head screws in my attempt to get this plate screwed back on.

I have even tried working the screws into just the plate itself (so I don't have to struggle with reaching through the drum to attach it - I'm doing this whole project myself), and I run into the same problem.

Any ideas? I have a regular screwdriver as well as a cordless Makita drill (12.9v?) with all kinds of phillips bits (#1, #2, etc).

Thanks!

I would have offered the following suggestions:

1) Use correct size type and size bit: Phillips, reed and prince or Pozidrive
They all look like "Phillips". Here is some light reading.
2) I use a Dremel and cut slots into difficult to remove screws.
3) Replace the screws with stainless and put Anti-Seize compound on the threads. The compound is available at an auto-parts store.

Now your current problem. Use new screws and use anti-seize if possible. A Torx head would be the best choice. They were designed for robotics and they don't fall off the screwdriver.

In general, if they are hanging up, make sure the threads are OK and your not cross-threading them. Try the screws in a simple nut. Try it in the nut that you have. Get a tap and/or die of the correct size and re-chase the threads.

Hi KeepItsimpleStupid,

Thanks for your reply. When I get off work later I'll have to look at the heads of those new screws better to see if they are indeed Phillips or Pozidrive or Frearson (Reed & Prince). That's a really good point (no pun intended).

As for the rest of your reply: Wouldn't "anti-seize" compound be a bad thing to secure the rear bearing "plate" to the back of the drum? I don't want them to loosen up during the next 5 years of tumbling clothes.

Also, upon calling a local appliance technician (who made somewhat disparaging remarks at hearing a woman on the other end of the phone who was fixing her own dryer -- before I was finally able to convince him of my mechanical ability - I talked car repairs and home remodeling with him for several minutes), he mentioned that the screws included in the kit were supposed to be self-tapping, and that the "plate" was purposely not tapped just so there would not be a problem of the screws loosening once they were drilled in. I did not think to ask him about the head of the screw - I mentioned I was using a Phillips, and he mentioned I would need the torque of a power drill to get them rather than using a hand-held Phillips screwdriver. I HAD used my drill last night, and it still wouldn't drive them in...

Hmmm. Any other ideas as well? I don't have a tap/die set...

OK, based on your new information:

Anti-Seize compound is used to prevent the fusing of bolt to nut under extreme conditions such as temperature. Two typical materials used are copper and molydynum. Both are very high temperature materials.

Torque determines whether the bolts will come loose. You can use it on lug nuts (torqued to 80 ft-lb, flywheel pulleys (120 ft lbs) or even spark plugs (about 15 inch-lbs) or even a lawn mower blade. It helps with removal. Parts don't rust together.

There are other chemicals such as loctite which comes in various strengths and for various applications. A low strength (loctite 222)might be used for screws on electrical parts and eyeglasses, yet other versions require heat to dissasemble.

All of these things enhance reliability chosen correctly. I tend to always use a torque wrench, Anti-Seize, loctite or a silicone grease whether it be car, eyeglasses, lawnmower or plumbing.

Usually there are three types of self-tapping screws. The wood screw is a prime example, but you need to drill one item with a clearance hole and the other side, the solid portion of the screw to avoid splitting. Typically wood screws have a low TPI or threads per inch.

Sheet metal screws have a higher TPI and may look like wood screws. Typically they are used to join two pieces of sheet metal together.

Another type is the self-tapping machine screw. This has the typical say 6-32 thread, but there is a "V" chip in the end that acts as cutting surface. These are the hardest to drive.

In thick sheet metal, these can be very difficult to drive. If this is indeed a sheet metal application, then don't use Anti-Seize.

First and foremost, get a bit that fits snugly. Pozidriv screws typically are marked with pattern outside of the cross. Philips screws have shallow angle and Reed and Prince have a much broader angle.

It will take considerable effort to drive a screw into thick sheet metal, so let's not use the drill. Get an adapter that has a 1/4" drive to those hex screwdriver bit holder which is what you have. Also get a 1/4" socket, extension and universal joint if you think you will need them.

Drive the screws by hand with the 1/4" ratchet. If the bit slips off, you got the wrong bit. It will take considerable effort if it has not had screws in before.

That's why I think that phillps is a bad choice. Once you damage the phillps screw, it's a hopeless cause. Torx is the way to go.