PLEASE HELP! I have a Magic Chef dryer model #YE205KW. Recently, it stopped heating with no other problems. I replaced the high limit thermostat and the thermal fuse. It worked fine with the first load or two and now it shuts off after a few minutes of drying time. After a few minutes later, after it has time to cool down I suppose, I can dry again for about five minutes. I have been told by several professionals that the cycling thermostat needs to be replaced. However, the last person I spoke to said that it was most definitely the motor overheating. So... what to do? I don't want to spend the money on the thermostat if that is not my problem. In addition, I have found that I am able to dry a few pieces of clothing at a time (2 pieces max) and it continues to run as normal.

Have you determined there is no obstruction in the vent line?

Yes I have indeed.

Try a full load of clothes on air only. If it quits, likely it is the motor.

I don't have an option for "air only". There is only one knob. It has timed dry, cotton/linen, and perm press. I have tried all cycles.

Tricky to do while dryer is hot and plugged in, be careful...

Locate the cycling thermostat. Attach a voltmeter to monitor the on/off condition of the thermostat. Observe that it in fact cycles while dryer is running. If not, it is suspect. That is - does it always stay on?

Let cool.

Reposition the voltmeter to monitor the overtemp thermostat. Is the overtemp thermostat turning off the heat?

If the cycling thermostat is stuck ON - then the overtemp thermostat will shut you off.

If the thermostats are working properly - motor.

Good luck.

If you are up to taking voltage reading while it is running, you can check the motor leads. See if it still has power right after it quits. If so, the motor over load opened. Could be the motor relay too. It is the last little box before the motor. It has line, load and coil. If the coil and line has power, and load doesn't the relay is bad.

I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detectoIf you are up to taking voltage reading while it is running, you can check the motor leads. See if it still has power right after it quits. If so, the motor over load opened. Could be the motor relay too. It is the last little box before the motor. It has line, load and coil. If the coil and line has power, and load doesn't the relay is bad.

I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detector. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit.
r. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit.

How's it going with this one? Let me know if you still need help.

I have found out that the dryer does in fact have a cool setting. LOL And it will run for an extended period on that setting. What now. Is it the motor or the thermostat. THANKS

Most likely the thermostat.

OK, some things you should know. There are 3 temperature related devices in most dryers, including yours. The operating thermostat (below the front edge of the dryer drum behind the front panel) is responsible for cycling the heater to maintain the temperature you have selected, usually has a maximum temp of 150 to 160 degrees. If that thermostat fails in the closed position or air flow is not what it should be, the high limit thermostat (blue body, above heating element) is responsible for shutting the heater down; this thermostat has a limit of 248 degrees. If the high limit thermostat fails, that's when the TOD on the right side of the heater will open and shut the dryer down until the problem is fixed. The TOD has a limit of 300 degrees. What all of this means is that if the TOD is open, the high limit has to be bad, because it should have shut the heater down 50 degrees before; this is why they come in a kit together. Another point you should consider is that the devices by the heater should never be used. They are not strong enough to cycle repeatedly. This begs the question, why did the high limit fail? It should never be used unless the cycling thermostat fails or air flow isn't right, or if the heater is broken and shorted to the housing (You should check that, by the way). The fact that your high limit thermostat failed means that there is probably something else wrong. BUT, the heat system and the drive system are completely separate. The only way the heating system will shut the dryer down is when the TOD on the heater housing opens. Based on your comments in prior posts, it is more likely you have a bad drive motor. When dryer motors fail, they usually make a "groaning" sound just the instant you push the start button. Once the dryer is running, the sound stops, but the dryer keeps running. When the motor overheats, it also has a TOD (thermal overload device) that shuts the motor down. If you try to restart the dryer when the motor is still hot, it won't start, and it simply groans at you. If this sounds appropriate, it's the motor, pure and simple. It is entirely possible, also, that you may actually have two different problems here. The fact that the high limit failed tells me you may also have a bad operating thermostat, but since they are non-testable components, you simply must change them to determine if problems continue. If you have any other related conditions, let me know, because it may change the possibilities.