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    jwilso's Avatar
    jwilso Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Sep 21, 2012, 01:36 PM
    Kenmore Series 80 Dryer Model 110 C60852990 - no heat
    OK, I admit defeat! I have a no heat problem with my Kenmore Series 80 dryer Model 110 C60852990 (Canada)
    I have just replaced the motor for a second time since July 2012 (now Sept), because everything points to a bad centrifugal switch.

    All connectors have be sprayed with Deoxit and crimped to nice tight connections.
    All switches and thermostats test OK and the high limit cycle thermostat was replaced (2 purple, two red wires), but the old one was found to be still OK.

    The heater element is OK, measuring 5 ohms.

    The problem is that when I replaced the original motor, everything worked just ONCE! Nice hot element on the normal Hi cotton setting. Next time I tried it... No heat!

    So the voltage to the heater is 120 VAC on the switch/thermal fuse/timer side. But the voltage from the centrifugal switch/motor side is only 24 VAC, instead of 120VAC to make the 240 VAC needed for HI heat. I removed this replacement motor, tested and cleaned everything again and reinstalled it and got the same result - worked the initial time, then low voltage on the motor side to the heater on the next test.

    Now I just installed the brand new motor and NADA. Didn't even work once. Still only 24 VAC from the centrifugal switch side! What am I missing here?

    Both new motors tested OK for the 4-6 resistance (with centrifugal switch pushed out) at 2.8 ohms, but the 4-5 resistance is only 1.5 ohms (low) - tested that way straight out of the box for the 2nd new motor!

    It can't be two bad motors in a row... can it?

    Please help... my hair is falling out with frustration.


    Jeff (aka Dr. Fix-it)
    In the boonies of Huron County.
    drtom4444's Avatar
    drtom4444 Posts: 3,282, Reputation: 145
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    #2

    Sep 21, 2012, 10:05 PM
    It sounds like the element has too low ohms, to me. The motor and the switches are not complicated, so maybe the overload is being overloaded. Here are some manuals on those dryers: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Whirlpool%20Dryers.zip
    Look more closely. Is the dryer clean?
    jwilso's Avatar
    jwilso Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Sep 22, 2012, 09:03 AM
    I just went a tested the voltage across the heater wires again after a couple of days and found 240VAC!
    So I tested all cycles and then back to the Normal hi heat cycle and had 240 VAC again. So good. Let's attach the heater.
    Nada - ho heat at all. The coil did not get hot so I can't imagine a thermal cutoff problem. So I guess the heater IS bad. Tested the resistance of the heater and now found Zero ohms. Before it was 5 ohms. No apparent break in the coil. Now the fun part. I disconnected the heater and checked the voltage again and now only get 96 volts. Can't get the 240 again. This is what I found originally when I saw the heater work fine ONCE and then not.

    So I just ordered a new heater and we will see if that fixed the problem. Still can't explain why I don't see 240 VAC every time across the heater wires.

    Jeff
    drtom4444's Avatar
    drtom4444 Posts: 3,282, Reputation: 145
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    #4

    Sep 22, 2012, 10:25 PM
    You can also check the little fuses attached to the ends of the element wires. Zero ohms is a short. Infinity is an open. You will read a lower voltage when the heater is working and 240 when it is open because no voltage is being dropped across the element.
    jwilso's Avatar
    jwilso Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Sep 26, 2012, 11:23 AM
    The saga continues...

    I just installed the new heater. I noted that the resistance in the new element is 10 ohms. The old one was zero, but probably would still work.

    First test with the new heater installed worked great. I briefly tested each cycle twice and got nice hot element for the normal and auto dry cycles. So OK, it's fixed... nope. After I put on the panels and put in all back in place and leveled I tried it once more... nada! No heat!!

    Voltage across the element with red wires attached is ZERO. Not attached I get 120 VAC from the switch/timer/cycle thermostat/etc. side and only 24 VAC from the motor side. Just tested all thermal fuses and they are all OK - zero ohms.

    So that can only leave the thermal fuse in the brand new motor... if it works with the centrifugal switch and is not just to protect the motor windings (which I think it is). The motor still runs fine, just not putting out 120VAC with the centrifugal switch out while spinning.

    What other possibility is left?

    Jeff
    jwilso's Avatar
    jwilso Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Sep 26, 2012, 11:26 AM
    Sorry I posted last info twice.. I though I lost the first one because I didn't log in first and it disappeared after I logged in.
    Jeff
    drtom4444's Avatar
    drtom4444 Posts: 3,282, Reputation: 145
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    #7

    Sep 27, 2012, 05:21 AM
    I seriously doubt that both motors would be bad. This makes me wonder about the timer contacts. Not that I condone replacing it unless it tests bad, though. It could test good until put under a load, which sounds like what is happening. Read ohms across the element and divide into the voltage to get rated amps. If it checks out when motor amps are added then it is okay. I do not see how the element can be bad if you changed it along with fuses at the end and it's not touching the sides. You have to be very careful that it does not touch the sides.
    jwilso's Avatar
    jwilso Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Oct 9, 2012, 03:21 PM
    Well I learned and expensive lesson... After replacing motor, heater, cycle thermostat, and countless hours of frustration, it WAS the power supply from the panel. Under load the one pole was giving only 24 VAC instead of 120 VAC. It was not the centrifugal switch.. it was sending all the power it was getting... duh! Should have thought of that first. When I tracked down the problem I found the red wire coming from the 30 Amp DPDT breaker was burnt and the one side of the breaker was partially melted! Yikes! So the breaker was bad and after replacement ($22) all is working fine. At least I know not to expect a problem with my dryer for awhile as it is now almost all new! Sigh.

    Thanks to all on this list for the suggestions. Hopefully others have learned more about troubleshooting a dryer from this thread.

    Cheers
    Jeff

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