Hi, I am having the same problem many of you out there have experienced. I purchased a new Kenmore Elite Electric Dryer 2 years ago. I have read all the responses posted here.
I have taken the lower front panel off, totally cleaned the insides, and tested the contacts for continuity that were in reach from the front.

They all tested okay except for the Thermistor. It tests between 17 to 40 ohms I read where 12 ohms is good for the thermistor. I need to know if it is too 'open' and needs replaced.

I haven't been able to get the back off to check the switches and boards. Can someone who has done that please tell me how to get in there.

Help! My laundry needs done!

Is the door closed good and tight? The closed door closes a switch which must be closed in order for it to run,, the same switch is what stops the dries when door is opened

I hope you are covered by the Evenheat Settlement: Evenheat Settlement
"The serial numbers for Evenheat dryers manufactured in 2001 begin with the letters “ML”; the serial numbers for Evenheat dryers manufactured in 2002 begin with the letters “MM”; and the serial numbers for Evenheat dryers manufactured in 2003 begin with “MP.” For 2001 models, the serial number range included in the Settlement Class is ML10 through ML52. (The two-digit numbers following the first two letters represent the calendar week of the year during which the machine was manufactured.) For 2002 models, all serial numbers beginning with “MM” are included in the Settlement Class. For 2003 models, the serial number range included in the Settlement Class is MP01 through MP46. If your Evenheat dryer's serial number does not begin with ML, MM, or MP, you are not a member of the Settlement Class. To locate the serial and model numbers, open the door to your dryer and look for the label immediately above the opening to the dryer's cavity."