I have a GE side-by-side refridgerator with a ice maker and water dispenser. In the last 3-4 months the water dispenser shuts off intermittently, but comes back to life on its own. I have changed the water filter as well as cleaned the water line, but haven't been able to identify the problem. The ice maker works fine.
Any thoughts?
Thanks

Scolgish1

Mine does the same thing. I think it is the ice dispensor door does not close properly and causes the water line or valve to freeze up. I dont know how to fix it. I cleaned the whole where the ice comes out. It did not fix the problem

oneillma

I have the same problem with model GSL25JFPABS.

I just called GE and was directed to a specialist at 800-386-1215. She had worked there for 15 years and said that my model number had no known issues. I find this hard to believe considering everyones' comments. Highly annoying. They want me to call a Tech (and pay for it of course.)

I will be purchasing some foam insulation to see if that works! Thanks for all the tips.

I have a GE dishwasher that is a piece of *^&$ too. It routinely will not clean the dishes unless they are loaded 'just so.'

No more GE for me.

ajcharnc

Bought house last year, has a GE model GSS25UFPH side-by-side black refrigerator/freezer. Circa 2003.

Water worked when house was purchased but we don't normally use it, just the occasional visitor.

Replaced filter, water dispensor didn't work. But hadn't checked it before we replaced the filter, it hasn't been used in months.

Checked this forum (thanks, people!). Turned off refrigerator and disconnected the water hose into the freezer door. Just a splash of water out either end.

Found a crimped, frozen line behind the vegetable crisper. Thawed it with hair dryer, will have to wait to see if happens again. Reset the temperature levels in the refrigerator.

AJ

Buckles

A really easy solution to this (short term but has worked for me for 6 months) is as follows:

Supplies needed:
balloon
thin plastic tube (I use one from a spray bottle)

1- fill balloon (does not need to inflate) with hot tap water
2- place plastic tube just inside the balloon opening
3- fold the balloon opening just around the tube so the water doesn't leak
4- place a towel under the water dispenser
5- insert the tube up into the water dispenser until it stops
6- squirt the water up into the water dispenser (you will feel cold water run onto your hand)
7- try the water dispenser
8- if the water doesn't run repeat steps 5-7 until the water runs

There is probably a better way to create a "squirt bottle" but this is the only thing I could come up with and it takes no time to throw together and clear the line.

w9513

I took the advice to put some additional insulation inside the freezer door 2 months ago and have had no trouble with the water dispenser since. I went to the local hardware store and purchased a styrofoam cooler. I ended up cutting out a 9x9 section of the cooler and taped it to the inside panel of the freezer.

It makes a great story to tell when someone else sees the styrofoam taped inside the freezer.

champion1

Hello everyone!!

I was having some problems with my frig as well. I didn't have the money to have someone come out.

I found this website and they will help you DIY!!! They'er great.

It only cost me $60 dollars and they mailed me out my parts. I could have gone to get them myself but there wasn't a shop around me. They walked me through the whole trouble shooting of the machine.

Here is the Link

steve37

where is the water vavle located on a GE side by side REfrigerator

bobny

dnl_emJul 13, 2009, 11:26 AM
I installed the heater last November. After about 3-4 months, the water tube froze up again. I had read where someone had taped insulation to the inside of the door. Using that idea, I drilled a 1 1/2in. hole in the inside of the door just under the ice dispenser chute. This is at about the same level as where the water tube exits out the front of the door.
I dug out the old insulation and put in some new foam insulation that I got from some packing material. I plugged the hole with a plastic plug that I got from the local hardware store. It doesn't look bad, and so far so good.

This is a very interesting solution. I intend to implement it since even with the heater, some have reported the frozen line problem coming back after a few months so the fundamental problem must have to do with deteriorating insulation in the area of the water line.

My question - Is your solution still working?

bobny

First the problem:
1 - Refrigerator works fine for several years
2 - Then, the water dispenser freezes up within 6 inches of where the water comes out. (you know this by inserting a weed cutter plastic wire, it should feed in several feet, there are no valves in the door, if it stops feeding sooner, it has encountered a freezed plug of water)
3 - Taping of insulation to the freezer door on the inside solves the problem for awhile.
4 - About a year later, the water outlet freezes again and the time it takes to refreeze is now only about an hour (insulation still in place on the freezer side of the door). Pulling out the plastic weed cutter wire you inserted up the outlet tube clears the ice blockage - but it's a pain to keep pulling out the line just to get water.
5 - One person reported that adding the heater mod may only be a temporary fix and as the interior door insulation further deteriorates, the line will once again start to freeze.

Given the above facts one has to conclude that the door insulation deteriorated since it worked when new. Anything other than a replacement of the interior door insulation would be a patch that would work until the insulation deteriorated further. With this in mind, I took the path of drilling a hole in the freezer side of the door at the same level as the water outlet on the outside of the door. The area to be drilled is just below the slanted ice chute, the flat section. I had a 2 inch hole drill handy (it only cuts the perimeter of the hole so you can pull out the plug) so I used that. 1.5 inch would be fine too.

Warning! Only drill into the door just enough to remove the outer plastic skin forming the door interior, it's about 1/16 inch or so thick. It's stuck to the interior insulation so you have to pry it off with a screwdriver after using the hole driller. There's nothing behind the interior door skin besides rigid insulation and the water feed tube which is an inch or so further in. Warning, I did not follow my own advice and drilled too far in (an inch or so) and nicked the water line - duct tape is a wonderful thing! - used to reseal the tube)

Once you have the plastic skin pried off, start removing the rigid insulation, it's like styrofoam ice coolers you can buy. A screwdriver works fine for removing the insulation bit by bit, it comes out in chunks. Continue to do so until the water tube line is fully exposed, several inches long. Be sure to clear out the insulation behind the water line too so the line stands fully exposed.

At this point I used fiberglass insulation (the pink stuff) used in the attic and stuffed as much as would fit into the space exposed. The fiberglass has the advantage of being somewhat elastic and as you stuff it in, it fills the area firmly, sealing off any drafts.

Ideally, you would be able to find a 2 inch plug that would neatly fit the drilled hole. Alas, the biggest one I could find was only 1.5 inches in diameter. Therefore, I just taped over the opening which still looks better than the old exterior insulation I had taped to the back of the door before.

After the fix, the water no longer freezes. Clearly, the door insulation had deteriorated - probably separating from the interior door edges, allowing a draft to reach the water line. The fiberglass insulation, being somewhat elastic, expanded enough to fill in the gaps. I never took the intermediate route of installing the heater since I figured it would eventually fail as a fix when the door insulation deteriorated further. If the fiberglass insulation itself fails after awhile, it's a simple matter of removing it and putting in fresh - but so far it's working fine.

tera_ble

I have a GE side by side that is approx. 4 years old. I started having problems first with my ice maker (but my boss has same fridge and she noticed similar symptoms with her water). Apparently it is a know problem that in these fridges, after about 4 years, the "Logic Board", or the "Main Assembly board" goes out. GE has made several changes to the board, and now have the 4th revision out. The cost is about $150 bucks at most appliance parts stores - and it takes about 10 minutes to change out. If it is the board and you don't replace it now, you will know it's the board if your top shelf items start freezing in the fridge, or eventually the cooling will stop all together (in my case, both the fridge and freezer went out). So if you continue to have probelms,or different problems start, replace the main assembly board. If you are under warranty, GE may not charge for parts and labor.