I have a Kemmore dryer that has stopped heating. The dryer tumbles and all apears to be good except no heat. I have checked the following:
Thermal cutout - 0 ohms - Good
Exhaust Thermostat - 0 ohms - good
Heater thermostat - 0 ohms - good
Heating element - 0 ohms - good
wiring - all good that I can see. All connections removed / reseated
Timer motor - good
Temp. selector kswitch - good
Thermostat pre-heater - 3kohms - ???
Does anyone know the 'normal reading for this part (FSP 61894) of have a suggestion on something I have missed?

Nwptsailor

disconnect power entirely and expose the heating element. If it is covered in dust heavily it will not heat . If covered in dust vac completely, reassemble covers and test for proper funtion once fully assembled.

andrewcocke

You might try checking under the drum where the blower assembly is at for excessive lint build up, check for air gaps in the drum chamber where air can get through. Check the fins of the blower wheel. This blower pulls the air through the drum from the element. I had this problem once, the dryer was all full of lint underneath.

Also, the best way to check switches if at all possible is live. Although this is not the safest, and dare I say, probobly not the best for a do it yourselfer,but its the way I was trained to troubleshoot, however it sounds like you have a general idea what you are doing, so you might try testing the element in its working condition. With both leads of your meter across both terminals of the element, you should read 220-240 volts, if you do not, then something else is wrong, while its running you can troubleshoot line for line untill you see where you get voltage. That determination will tell you where your problem is.

Also, note that if you test the element in its working condition, leave it in its cavity, do not remove it. Should the element actually turn on, and you have it sitting out, it will burn up almost instantly. It gets HOT.

Edit: Sorry Nwptsailer: didnt mean to cut in. You answered while I was typing mine.

tkrussell

I don't think the heating element should be zero ohms. You are measuring a resistance element. A dryer heater usually is about 4500 watts at 240 volts , and draws 18.75 amps, so you should read about 12.80 ohms across the heating element.

So my guess is the element is bad, usually this is easy to see since the element usually breaks.

Hbarnes422

Heating element had a slight amount of dust on the contacts and a little on the inside of the housing. I vaccuumed it off as I was checking. I also vaccuumed the floor pan under the dryer and around the sides and from the top.

When I said the heating element was 0, I am using a inexpensive vom and it was probably something above zero - it was not however an open.

I checked the voltage at the element and I get 0. I checked on the main block and I get 220-230 volts.

andrewcocke

Im a little concerned about that pre tstat. 3,000 ohms is a lot of resistance for a switch. Could have some messed up contacts there. Although if thats a thermistor, then it could be normal.

I also will agree with tkrussel. 0 ohm resistance on an element doesnt sound normal either, it would seem that it would dead short.

One thing you havent checked (or at least posted here) is the centrifucal switch in the motor. This switch most close to bring one leg down to the element. You will most likley only be able to check this switch while the motor is running, refrencing the wire diagram to locate the best test points.

Also, remember, if you troubleshoot by ohming things out, rememebr do disconnect one side of what ever it is you are testing, thus eliminating any possibility or reading through the circuit.

labman

I hate to say this, but have you checked the lint filter? I was very disappointed recently when I discovered my wife let ours pack full to where no air was flowing. If that doesn't do it, it sounds like the power isn't being switched on somewhere. Working hot, you can eventually track it down with a volt meter. I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detector. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit. You do not have to open up housings and expose electrical contacts. You are looking at where your hand is, not where the meter is. Most people are capable of doing repairs and will get it going and not get hurt if they use a little sense. The voltage detector makes it even easier.

Start at the timer. It may not be powering the coil of the relay that supplies power to the element.