I should add more detail, I had a friend replace timing belt, water pump, seals....etc.-about two weeks later the Check Engine light came on and the car started lurching when pulling over 3000 rpms.
I replaced the Distributor the car started up (more easily than prior) three times.... Now only turns over and won't start.
Thinking from some of these other converstaions the Main relay/fuse box might be a good place to start.... Any suggestions?

If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is likely distributor related. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings (all others are suspect), where it's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil to keep the cost down. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD--the remainder are unreliable, in my opinion. Therefore, I suspect the distributor is bad. This assumes everything is okay with the timing belt.

No CEL light - the fuel pump/relay does engage when the key is turned to the run position. The CEL light came on with the original distributor, changed that one out - no CEL

. Clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing.

. Check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter, particularly the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse in the under dash fuse box.

. Perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate. Many Hondas parked for several years are now back on the road. "The K-Test creates massive value, by providing a low cost solution where one did not previously exist."--TxGM

. Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting.

. Ensure the CEL bulb has not burned out, if the problem persists.