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View Full Version : Kenmore Front Load Washer #417.41042000 won't spin, does drain



dkh
Feb 4, 2007, 12:52 PM
Hi,
When I bought my machine, the previous owner offered the following description:
It is about 2.5 years old. We had some problems with it spinning the proper speed after moving it. The repair people told us it was due to using too much soap or being imbalanced. Had it repaired a couple times, but occasionally it still had a problem. It would spin properly for a while sometimes, then after a while, it would work fine again.
After one poorly loaded wash, the problem has reoccurred. So far, it has not decided to "work fine again". Apparently, there is not an owner's repair manual available.
When I searched another forum, I found the following:
Model number 417.43042. First drop the bottom panel and check the drain pump for debris, coins, etc. This model will not go into high spin if the pressure switch detects there is water in the tub. There was also a service flash out on this model regarding the timer not advancing. This had to do with electrical noise generated by the opening and closing of the timer contacts. This sent corrupt signals to the motor controller and the washer would stall in cycle. They corrected this problem by adding 3 jumpers to the motor controller. Part 134306000. My feeling is that you have a pump drain issue, but it's hard to tell without being there.

Is my model older than the 417.43042, meaning this should not be the problem, or is there the same service flash & correction for mine 417.41042000? Tags on the wiring indicate: "assembled in Mexico 2001".
I checked the "Hose-coin trap-tub to pump" (part #131784700), found & removed a quarter. When I put everything back together, it still will not work; it doesn't even want to agitate.
Will it operate without clothes in it, so I can monitor the operation?

If there is a service flash, how do I get information about it? I went to a Sears service center, but this location employs cashiers, no technicians.
Thank you so much for helping, I found this problem after returning from a week vacation January 1st. I didn't break it, but it seems I must fix it.

Hormaz
May 21, 2007, 11:08 PM
I had the same issue with my washer and found that the lid-switch (the one which gets pressed when you shut the lid) was broken. The screw-guides on the lid switch were broken causing it to fall down and hence the washer thought the lid wasn't closed.

I stuck the broken screw-guides on the lid-switch and screwed it back it and the washer now works fine. Alternatively I found out the lid-switch can be ordered from sears.com

Hope that help,

-hormaz

Heidimom
Jun 29, 2009, 11:58 PM
Sorry no answer, but I have the same problem with same model.
I did recently do many loads in a row, several with comforters and waterproof pads.. which create a fair amount of suds, even though I use very little soap for these. I've read this can lead to problems.
I'll try the filter tomorrow. Too tired now... 3 kids, 3 loads of laundry in the wings... I really am hoping you found a solution.
PLEASE let me know. Thanks !

jenleola
Aug 19, 2010, 08:57 PM
With my front loader I have to do more than just check the trap. I have to detach the big black hose and clean it out. All sorts of small items, namely my two-year-old's socks, get stuck in that tube. It's a bugger to clean out. I had to fashion a long wire with a hook on the end to fish the items out.

fmhplumbing
Nov 2, 2010, 05:44 AM
I am a service tech with fm hardesty plumbing and heating inc. we have the same issue there are two issues this can be none of whitch involve the water level sensor. One is some moron told you the motor is bad... no not always yes its possible but highly unlikely if it works on low speed swish it more than likely will work on high speed spin the most likely cause is a voltage control for low high reverse speeds this is why we use a triple jumper it eliminated this feature to replace the voltage control the entire mother board must be replaced at a cost of whitch you might as well find a new washer these can run anywhere from 550 to 1050 as it is the heart of the unit the logic control board is like the computer in your car without it you are basically sitting on a pile of scrap metal it best to have a tech perform a ohm test on the motor and perform a voltage output test on the voltage control to verify
And don't be surprised there are many who refuse to even touch a smart washer

champa1
Feb 2, 2011, 02:08 PM
This happened to me twice: the first time, the water pump was bad; the second time, a nail had made its way to the water pump, and jammed it; there were also several coins, etc, so it might be a good idea to clean it out periodically). The machine won't let the drum spin if it detects a problem with the water pump, so instead of spinning, it continues with its cw/ccw tumbling until the timer runs out, leaving you with a tub full of water and wet laundry. It's easy to replace: however, I forget what I did to first drain the water. After unplugging it, remove the service panel (bottom front of machine): the water pump is in the close right corner. Remove a couple hoses from it (now's the time you'll have to figure out how to drain the tub), and remove a couple screws holding down the pump. It LOOKS like there's plenty of room to work, but the arrangement of the clamps isn't the best; I've read that it helps to lean the machine back against a wall, but haven't tried this myself. Replacement is the reverse; I bought a replacement pump at a local appliance store for around $30 (I think), about 4 years ago.

seventex
Jan 14, 2012, 06:59 PM
EASY FIX - I read all this and figured my issue (Kenmore front loader, model 417 --- something) was the locking mechanism. The problem was washing, tumbling, but not spinning. The drum drained fine and went through the motions, but clothes were sopping wet -- too wet to put in the drier.
Reading all the scary possibilities, expensive possibilities, this seemed most likely.
I pulled the part out, it was easy, pull the retaining ring from around the rubber apron, pull the apron back near the latch. Two square drive scews and three electrical plugs. I had it out in about 3 minutes. This was great as I could get the part number directly off the part being replaced and I could look at pictures to be totally sure. Ordered from Amazon, $65, part came, putting it in took no more time than taking it out (just reverse the steps) -- washer works fine now. I am glad, my machines are stacked, it would have been a big pain to pull the dryer off the top of it. If this is what your washer needs, you're crazy not to do it yourself. It's very easy.

debrapor
Jan 31, 2012, 02:41 PM
Dear seventex ^ champa!

Would love to do it myself, but I really have no clue what you are talking about... I've pulled the service panel off & I do see sort of a small housing type thingy with wires going to it near the front right... Could you maybe post a picture... I don't have the $$ for a repair person, so either I have to figure it out or start going to the laundromat regularly. Thanks!

JJJ02
Oct 6, 2012, 07:01 AM
My 417 Kenmore stacking model door will not unlock and my clothes are held hostage! The locked light stays on. The timer will not advance. If I turn it to final rinse it stays there, draining without tumbling. If I turn it to a wash cycle it adds some water but will not tumble or advance. Is there a way to defeat the lock so that I can get my clothes out?? Help!

Bdavidsmeyer
Oct 14, 2012, 08:46 AM
I Have same issue just stared 10-13-12. Tried all ideas with no success yet.