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desjr
Aug 1, 2009, 05:46 PM
Hi Gang,

I have a heat pump issue and could use some expert advice please.

I heard a loud squealing noise from outside when my heat pump started up so I knew a motor bearing was on its way out. I was hoping it would last until my next day off but, sure enough after two days I came home to a warm house.

The original motor had three wires... red, black and brown. The new had four... black, white, brown and brown/white. I left the original dual capacitor in place and added a new second capacitor for the brown and brown/white wires. I ran the black to the defrost control board same as the original black. White to the T1 terminal on the contactor where the original red had been. I hope I did that all correctly.

Buttoned it all back up and nothing but a click. I pushed the contactor down manually and the fan and compressor both come on, so at least I know the new motor works. Before I could go any further a sudden thunder storm blew in, I yanked the pull out and headed inside.

When I get back at it I know my first step will be to check for 24 volts to the coil. If I have voltage than that could only be a bad contactor, right? If I don't have any power to the coil than what will my next step be? Could there be a high pressure switch with a reset?

Is there a likely side effect from the failure of a condenser fan motor, or might this just be a coincidence?

Dang its hot in here. :D

Thanks for any info!

wmproop
Aug 1, 2009, 07:54 PM
you are right check for 24 volts at the contactor,,,,,if none check the transformer for 24 volt output,,,,,if none,well ,probably the transformer is bad,,,if there is 24 volts check the wiring for breaks or shortages
if there was a high pressure switch needing reset it wouldn`t have started when you did the manuel start-up

desjr
Aug 3, 2009, 02:01 PM
Thanks for the help. It finally stopped raining! :)

I found the problem. I'll list my steps in case it helps someone else.

There was 24vac from the transformer, but there was no power at the terminal leaving the defrost board (Y) to the coil. I saw two terminals labeled Y The second Y was also dead and I followed the wire to the low pressure switch. I had power towards the switch, but none out. Upon closer inspection I found the switch itself was barely holding together. I must of damaged it during my motor swap by tugging on the wires. I bypassed the switch for now until I track down another one. House feels much better now. :D

My next question....
Does the switch have a valve in it that will allow me to swap it out without loosing all the freon? I can see it is threaded like an automotive style.

tia

siberianair
Aug 3, 2009, 05:49 PM
probably not... what kind of system is this again?? might be easier to just leave low pressure switch out of loop.

desjr
Aug 4, 2009, 05:17 PM
It is a split heat pump system by Intercity Products Group

I found a switch that resembles it online HK02ZB038

There is a picture at this site
americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PRS2ZB038&Category_Code=

It is working fine without for now. I think I should replace it as a 'just in case' to save the compressor in the event of a leak? If I can't do it without loosing freon I will probably wait until the next checkup and see about getting it replaced then.

desjr
Aug 9, 2009, 01:21 PM
I just wanted to post a "Thank You" to wmproop and siberianair for directly helping with my problem.

I learned enough to get me started by reading other threads too, so, thanks to everyone that tries to help out those of us less knowledgeable, you are all appreciated.