My dryer makes these brutal high pitch squeaking sounds. Does anyone know what might be causing it and how to fix it? It`s about a 5 year old Frigidaire


Thx

Probably a roller going bad. At Lowes/Home Depot they've got a good selection of Appliance and Misc. I can't walk you through a troubleshoot, but Home repair/troubleshooting books that I think every homeowner should own if they have a few basic tools and are willing to try stuff themselves.

Hope this helps!

Four possible areas:

There is a small roller that tightens the drive belt for the drum. They can squeak. Remove the lower front panel and you should see the small roller near the motor and belt.

Another is the two larger rollers that support the drum. You will see this if you remove the front lower panel.

A another is where the drum rides on the upper round part of the door/opening and it has a plastic guide that separates the metal drum from the metal door/opening. Over time this wears out and the two metal pieces will squeak.

The motor bearings may be worn. Remove the drum drive belt and then start the dryer. If it squeals with the belt off then the motor bearings are likely worn.

Greetings. After working on Frigidaire dryers for the past 15 years, I would bet you have a bad rear drum bearing. These bearings, when they fail, they make the most shrill sound you can imagine. Usually support rollers and idler pulleys don't make this noise, and chances are, your front panel is a solid panel, not a split one. These bearings get packed with dirt, dust and lint which causes them to become dry and fail. It's inherent in its design, which you will understand if you decide to fix it. Trust me, you need a rear bearing. The only hope you have is that you have noticed it before the bearing cradle is fried. If not, it doesn't really matter, because all the related parts come in the same package. If you're interested in doing it yourself, I can help you change it. Just let me know.

My dryer ( Frigidaire FDE546RES1) has this exact problem: Unbearable squeal that goes away in 1 or 2 minutes. I would like to repair it if I can.

I bought a belt, thinking that was it but you (applguy) say it must be bad rear drum bearings.

How do I find them? How do I replace them? I am able to get the front of the dryer off but I do not know how to remove the back.

Thanks for you help!

I don't see why you couldn't fix it yourself... it's not really that difficult, but it can really be a bonus if you can have someone help you hold things together at one point. It (the dryer) is serviced from the front. The part number you will likely need is 5303281153. This is a kit that contains every part that could possibly need to be replaced when dealing with a rear drum bearing. First, unplug the dryer from the outlet or remove power at the breaker/fuse panel. To raise the top of the dryer, insert a putty knife into the crack between the top and the front panel and push against the spring clips to release them. There are two clips, anywhere from 23 to 8 inches in from the sides. You should be able to feel the spring tension when you push on them. Push one in slightly, and raise that side, then the same for the other end of the main top. Once the top is up, you will disconnect the wires to the door switch (right side, on the backside of the front panel), if there are 3, mark them somehow to get them back correctly, if only 2 wires, no need as location makes no difference. Then remove the phillips screw holding the yellow tab-looking plastic thing front and center in the top of the front panel. Then remove the 2 screws holding the front panel to the side panels, screw heads are inside the cabinet, screws pointing towards you. Pull the front panel away and lift off the bottom clips to remove. Now remove the belt from the idler pulley. The idler is located right behind the blower/motor unit. Make sure to note how the belt goes around the idler so you get it back on right. Once the belt is free, slide the belt to the back edge of the drum and, using it as a handle (on the top side of the drum), lift straight up to disengage the rear bearing from the cradle. This can be a very tight fit, especially if it worn badly. You may have to pull relatively hard. Once done, the drum will pull out through the front of the cabinet. Now you can see the drum support ball on the back of the drum and the cradle that holds it. Simply keep note of how you remove the cradle from the back wall to reassemble it correctly (this is where 4 hands are better than 2 and don't loose track of the ground bearing from the back). Using a small drop of supplied grease to keep the bearing in the plastic cradle makes reassembly much easier. As far as the post on the back of the drum is concerned, if the new and old parts look ABSOLUTELY identical, leave it alone and just clean it up good. If you must change it (another place where 4 hands are better than 2), be very careful with the new screws, because they are cheap and the heads strip almost instantly. Put a generous portion of supplied grease into the cradle and reassemble the dryer. Good luck, and if you see something that doesn't look right or confuses you, let me know.

Well, I did it! I understand why it costs so much to have "the repair guy" fix it! Thank you very much for saving me so much.

It was NOT easy getting it back together.

There is a slight knocking sound that wasn't there before... I am going to go with it for now!

Thanks again.

Kathy

Happy to be able to help. If you had to change the rear support on the back of the drum, you might want to look that over once more to make sure it's together right and tight. The rear of the drum runs very close to the heater and its ceramic insulators and I would hate to see you short out your heating element because you overlooked something. It could also be the belt tracking wrong in the idler pulley. I don't remember off the top of my head if there is an inspection cover on the back of the dryer that you could check that without too much trouble. By the way, thanks for the "cost" comment. Some people just don't get that just because I may make it look easy, doesn't necessarily mean that it would be easy for them. Sometimes experience and time is worth more than money. Oh, and I assume your noise is gone... Cheers.

Thanks applguy! My wife and I completed this in under an hour and the dryer does NOT squeak. Yahoo!

Thanks so much Appleguy, you ROCK! We fixed our dryer using your excellent post. You saved us some cash, and our sanity!

Just fixed mine in about an hour also. Thanks Appleguy much appreciated.

Another Thank You to the Appleguy. This is a pretty simple fix thanks to your advice

Fixed my dryer today as well. One suggestion I have is to use #10 x 1/2" Hex Heads instead of the crappy, easily stripped screws that are included with the repair kit. Good luck - boy does my quiet dryer sound sweet !

I registered for this site because of APPLEGUY. I did a Google search for horrible sqeual in clothes dryer and this site popped up first. I could actually hear the squeal outside my home. I read APPLEGUYS reply on how to replace the rear bearing. I went to a Sears with a Parts area with my model # and the parts # he suggested. Paid $28.00 for the kit, went home followed his directions and replaced all the pieces in a little over an hour by myself I am fortunate to have long arms to reach some of the areas. Though I was able to do it myself, it would have been MUCH easier to have a couple extra hands. Closed everything up and NO SQUEAL. And NO MORE LAUNDRYMAT!:) THANKS APPLEGUY!!

I have a Westinghouse dryer and I have now replaced the bearing/housing twice now within a year and a half. I assume the grease is drying up and frying the joint because the drum is "out of whack" and putting more pressure on that joint - if the drum rotates in a large irregular circle, the joint will have to do more work. If it rotates in a nice tight circle, it shouldn't have too much friction and strain - Or so I was told by the guy behind the counter at the parts store.

To alleviate that potential problem, this time I also replaced that piece of felt that separates the drum from the inside of the front door. Specifically I replaced the top piece of felt. The new piece had 3 plastic spaces that I am told will help keep the drum from having too much wiggle room. Hopefully that helps prevent any unnecessary stress on that joint and it will last longer than a year. Any thoughts Appleguy? I hope the parts store didn't sell me an extra $20 part that won't help.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Appleguy --

I have a White-Westinghouse model dryer that is squeaking like a car needing a brake job. I think that I need to replace the rear bearing. Any idea what part number I would need? :confused:

Thanks
Dan

Hey there!

Im SO incredibly happy i found this site!! lol

Im having the same problem with my dryer.......and its driving me nuts! Its been squealing now for months n months........it started with one high pitch squeak.....now its making 2 different sounds.

My dryer is a Beaumark...

could this mean it could be the bearings aswell?

I just followed ApplGuy's suggestion on fixing the squeak in my Frigidaire dryer.

It now works perfectly - no squeaks!

Thanks.

Thank's for the information.

The installation kit also came with the instruction's as well. It was no problem at all fixing.

I done it by myself in little over 45 minutes. Work's like a charm.

I own a Frigidaire Gallery Heavy Duty stacked washer/dryer combo that is experiencing the same problem. I have purchased the rear bearing kit but disassembly of this unit seems to be different (no top to pop off). Can you help?

Appleguy,
As has been said by many... Thanks! Our machine just started Screaming last week. My first thought was to use some belt dressing on the belt... thought that did the trick... for about five minutes:rolleyes:
I decided to Google "clothes dryer squeak" and hit on this thread. Again, excellent advise, with great results. Thanks again, Appleguy! And, as previously mentioned, you rock! :cool:

I need to replace the Drum Bearing on my dryer also. I purchased the kit, but it did not come with any grease. What type of grease I need to used? What is the best grease to use for the rear drum bearing?

I was curious where did you guys purchased the Frigidaire rear drum bearing kit? Online? From a Frigidaire dealer?

Thanks,
Darren

My dryer makes these brutal high pitch squeaking sounds. Does anyone know what might be causing it and how to fix it? It`s about a 5 year old Frigidaire


Thx
Oil might be all you need! My Kenmore dryer (about 20 years old) developed that loud squeal recently. I didn't want to spend the time to do the bearing replacement myself or invest any money in such an old machine. Before I went to purchase a new dryer, my daughter (a 21-year old college student) took a look at it, found a small, round opening in the middle of the back panel, saw "something turning" when the dryer was running, and oiled it - the squeal went away! She said the sound was like metal-on-metal so she just went looking for access to the inside of the dryer, and found it. Hope this unbelievably simple solution works for you, too.

We also have a squeaking (squealing) Frigidaire stacked washer / dryer combo. Does anyone know where to access the pulley, idle arm, bearing area? Thanks.

Hi folks! I registered here because of THIS thread and all the good advice I've read here.
I own Kenmore Stacking Laundry Unit model# 417.94802301.

I can CLEARLY hear the squeeking outside the house. It's driving all of us insane! It started weak at first and would then die out after 2-3 minutes. Now it's constant! Arrrgh!

Here is the exploded view of my drum/parts:
http://tinyurl.com/ytkd47

I suppose I need parts #12 and #32?? And maybe #30?)

A separate Google search told me I have to take the front and top off to get at the drum... Correct?

PLEASE HELP ME! :(

Hi guys just registered once I read appleguys post too.
I have a 5 yr old hotpoint dryer with a squeak when you first load the dryer and stops after a few minutes would this also be the same problem (bad drum bearing) Please help want to get this solved before it's too late. Thanks

Right on the money!

Applguy is the man - the rear bearing in my GE was shot and his instructions were spot on. Super easy 30 minute fix! It would appear that Frigidaire makes this same unit for a variety of brands. Anyway, I bought the kit from partwizard.net and paid $29.15 total. GE wanted $75.00 for the kit so be sure to shop around. I just Googled 5303281153 and found the kit on eBay for less than $12. Oh well, you win a few, you lose a few. Have fun!

I just unscrewed 2 bolts there were holding a little panel on the back of my dryer and sprayed some WD-40 on the metal piece that was spinning and my horrible squeaking noise went away. Took about 2 minutes.

I was curious where did you guys purchased the Frigidaire rear drum bearing kit? Online? From a Frigidaire dealer?

Thanks,
Darren

Since this was asked a while back it may be irrelevant, but it may help somebody else to know where to get the parts. I was able to find the part needed at the local Appliance Parts store that deals in just this sort of things. In fact the store here was actually called 'Appliance Parts'. Look in the local yellow pages (or do an online search) for the brand of your dryer and Frigidaire and then looks for parts or repair. The part cost me less than $22 and on the phone I just had them check if they had it in inventory and to confirm that it was labeled as a rear drum bearing.

I too have a squeaky Kenmore Dryer, 417.91142000. The squeak isn't constant, so I'm hoping the noisemaker hasn't degraded too badly. Guessing a rear bearing problem, I found and bought the bearing replacement kit at the Sears web site, but it arrived without directions.

Applguy's response helped me get the drum off, (Thanks!), and I have the parts in hand, but I'm concerned that I've got the wrong parts. The ball shaft on the old part has a flat head with a recessed center for the ball bearing to fit into. The new ball shaft is not recessed. In fact, it has a slight bulge where the recess is on the old ball shaft. Is that a problem?

Also, the parts kit (5303281153) came with a tube of lube, but it is some sort of oil, not grease. The old bearing drum support has grease in it, mostly black due to age and use, but with hints of white here and there. Did I get the wrong lube, or is using this oil a better solution than grease?

I'm guessing that the ball bearing and clip on the rear are there just to make it easier to apply more lube, as others in this thread have done to solve their squeak problem. Is that true? I wish I'd read this thread before buying the parts.

I have a 5 year old Whirlpool dryer that just started doing the same thing.

Can I assume that the same part needs replacing and do it?

I just registered and this place is great

Lizzie64, I don't know whether your dryer is at all like my Kenmore (previous post), but you might want to check to see if there is a lube access door on the back. Had I read this list first, I would have tried adding lube first, before bothering with replacing the rear bearing. As it turned out, I didn't replace the bearing, since the new parts were slightly different, and instead removed the drum, cleaned off the old grease, applied new grease, and put everything back together. So far, so good.

Thank you Bparent. Actually I have a GE profile. LOL

I'll ask my husband to take a look and see. Stupid question, what do you grease it with?

Thanks again!
Liz

HELP! I found this forum and was hoping to add a "it was a snap" comment, however, I've got a problem. After picking up a rear bearing kit at a Sears Parts Outlet ($23) I followed appleguy's advice. I replaced everything and finally put all the pieces back together (hint: work on pulley/belt from the back for an easier angle) AND NOTHING HAPPENS! Everything is plugged in (I 10X checked my color coded wires and fuse box), but I push start and NOTHING! Help! I'm +7 hours into this project and DO NOT want to give up! Any advice on what might be causing the lack of power?

Hoping for Good News,
JOSH

Well, my Maytag is only a few years old and has progressively gotten more squeaky, now it is shrill, this thread seems right on, but the part 5303281153 is for Frigidaire and their genre, will this work also with a Maytag as I cannot find a separate part elsewhere

I just replaced the rear drum bearing on the dryer and then heard a thumping noise. You also need to replace the Front drum glide $30. ( a piece of foam with 3 plastic tabs ) if one wears out so does the other.

My dryer makes these brutal high pitch squeaking sounds. Does anyone know what might be causing it and how to fix it? It`s about a 5 year old Frigidaire


Thx
Glad I found this place and thanks for all the replies.

I have a 10 year old White Westinghouse that was making the same high-pitched squeal about 30 minutes into the drying cycle. I lubed the rear bearing with WD-40 and the squeal ceased for about a week but I had to reapply because the squeal started again.

Can anyone recommend a good, long lasting lube (probably a grease) that they've had success with? My WD-40 can has a straw which is nice because I can lubed without moving the dryer however it looks like its drying out too fast. I would guess an automobile grease would be long lasting and resistant to the high temps.

BTW, I believe White Westinghouse/Electrolux/Frigidaire at some point were all the same company as my mom worked there for many years and the plant name changed among these three during her employment. In other words, the designs may be very similar so try one of the cheap suggestions (even if your brand isn't the same) before buying any parts.

:) Done! And the squeak is GONE! :)

It took me an hour with the help of my 8 year old. If it can help someone, the bearing kit I bought for my Frigidaire dryer is made by Electrolux and is also good for the following brand: White Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Gibson, Tappan and Philco.

HELP! I replaced the rear bearing on my kenmore model number 417.90872992, it worked for 15 minutes then started squeaking again. The drum was not tumbling just squeaking. Could I have not replaced the belt probably on the pulley? Does anyone have a picture of the way the belt should be attached to the pulley correctly? Or do you think it might be another problem entirely? Thanks!

FedEx delivered the repair kit today, and I did the repair in an hour or two (didn't pay careful attention to the time). It's a straightforward job, but I really needed the help knowing how to disassemble the dryer. And of course I wouldn't have had any idea that the repair kit was really the solution!

A couple of comments on ApplGuy's beautiful instructions: in my dryer there was no reason to disconnect the door switch. I wasn't going to work on the dryer with power applied, so there was no danger of accidental turn-on, and the wires only go to the front panel. I don't think there was any reason to remove the funny yellow thing either. To pop the drum out of the old bearing I used my hands leveraged against the back panel, rather than pulling on the belt.

I didn't have any significant trouble with just two hands. The screws that hold the post to the back of the drum were the trickiest part. I succeeded by judiciously switching between a regular screwdriver and an electric one. I wonder why they didn't supply star or torx head screws?

We also fixed our dryer using the great directions (1 hour including fighting with the 3 screws on the drum... but the recommended hex head screws before starting).

Some notes: our Fridgaire had a coupling to disconnect for the front panel instead of individual wires. The current Phillips head screws are #3 size and that may be why many have problems with them (#3 requires a large Phillips screwdriver). Have a vacuum handy to clean out the lint build-up.

I have read this entire post history. I have a Frigidaire gas dryer. I had the squeeking noise so I replaced the rear drum bearing kit for $28. I still have the noise. I have found the source - it is the exhaust blower wheel and it is resonating through the exhaust duct. I found this by unplugging the machine, disconnecting the belt drive, and turning the blower wheel with my hand. Does anyone know how to replace the blower wheel or fix it?

Applguy, is this the same part number for the Frigidaire FSEC748GF Dryer. It is an older stackable, and has the same squeak as the above dryers. Also where is the cheapest place on the internet to get these parts?

Thank you in advance

I have the same symptoms but my Dryer is an Admiral model number ADE7005AYW. Will the fix from applguy work with this model as well? If so where would I get the parts? If not, what might be the problem with this dryer?

I just wanted to add my kudos to applguy and this entire post for guiding me (actually us) through the replacement of our Frigidaire dryer's hideously squealing bearing. The job proceeded smoothly and was done in a couple hours.

A couple notes for those trying this: (1) as mentioned earlier (applguy's post dated Apr 17, 2006), an extra person is helpful and nearly mandatory when attaching the cradle assembly; (2) removing and reattaching the belt around the idler pulley is best and most easily performed through the rear inspection cover, if present (applguy's post dated May 2, 2006).

Along these same lines, for those who don't know how this is done, the idler pulley in attached to a spring loaded "L" bracket that rotates, slackening the belt for removal and reattachment. I should have known this before proceeding but did not. Trying to unhook the belt, from the front, without knowing about the rear panel or the pulley bracket's motion was quite the P.I.T.A. Now I know.

Thanks again, applguy, and all the rest. We now enjoy the drying sounds of silence (apologies to Simon and Garfunkel).

I own a westinghouse dryer that had a belt get shredded probably due to being 5+ years old. We had noticed a pretty loud squelching sound but it was tolerable so we let it go... finally the belt came apart.

In hind sight - I think the ball joint in the back was so devoid of lube that the belt was getting very taxed and that probably did the sucker in.

So I pulled the top and front off - replaced the belt and put it back together only to have the thing dead... completely ZIPPO. :mad:

Checked the outside circuit breaker - it was fine. I double checked my door connection - it was fine. Still nothing.

VERY FRUSTRATED and 4 hours into this little project (including the $20 trip to the parts store) - I finally pulled the back off the control panel. And there I found a ray of hope - I saw a white wire dangling in the wind. SWEET! - So where do I put it? The length of the wire suggested that it could only connect to the back of the timer - but there were no obvious "missing" connections. :confused:

I am not joking when I say that after another 3 hours of following wires and the cryptic wiring diagram... I was on Craigslist looking for another dryer. :eek:

In one last gust of desperation - I went back into the guts of this box and sat down. I found one odd place on the side of the already connected timer loop - which was black and looped to itself (sort of)... and you can pony the white/neutral to that side connector.

I plugged her in, hit start and just about pooped my pants when I heard the whiiirrrr!

So - if you are in the "dead dryer" boat - and have 8-9 hours to spend trying to figure out why your blasted machine won't kickup anymore - pop the back off the control panel and have a look.

Now all I need - is a good recommendation for a metal to metal lube/oil that I can slather on the ball joint..?

Thanks for all the previous answers - even though they didn't solve my issue - they helped me keep digging. :D :D

I want to THANK APPLGUY I found this on the net and joined just to be able to say THANKS. I heard that noise in my dryer and fixed it by myself using your instructions. You were awesome. Thank you. You saved me a lot of money. Come on if a woman can read these directions and fix her dryer you know he did a great job. Thanks again. From San Antonio, TX

I put high temp axle grease on the bearing on my dryer and it has worked good so far.
I just want to say what a sorry piece of engineering these things are.
I have had our dryer for maybe 5 to 7 years and have had to replace the felt strip with the teflon pads and lubed the bearing countless times.
Why don't they use some sort of sealed bearing and bearings instead of the teflon pads?
Seems they are designed not to last.

AppleGuy, you're the man. Thank you so much for posting the detailed instructions on repairing the rear bearing. :)
I purchased the kit for $25 and had it installed 90 minutes later. Glad I did too, as the bottom of the dryer was full of lint and needed to be cleaned. :p
I wish I would have purchased the belt at the same time as it is badly cracked. Just a suggestion to those still considering the repair.

I have a question, please, about a GE Dryer. It was making HUGE squeaking noises, metal on metal. I open the top of the dryer, looked down and tried applying some WD40 on the drum belt. I could not see where to open the bottom panel or the panel in the back. However, upon further inspection, I saw a gob of grey matter down along the left side, toward the front where the drum rolls and rubs on. I pulled it out and it appears to be a kind of felt belt or padding that must have prevented the metal drum from rubbing the metal path. Am I correct? Well, it's broken and I have it out. Can this be replaced or is this dryer dried it's last load? Replies would be very welcome. You can write to me direct at jim.flack@gmail.com.

I have a Hotpoint that started making this load squeaky noise, as soon as I add the clothes and run it, Its starts. The wetter the clothes are the loader it gets it is about 6 yrs old please help.

Hotpoint and GE are about the same. Follow the advice contained in the thread here for a cure.

Applguy DOES rock!

I took his advice and replaced the rear bearing assembly on my Frigidaire dryer.
Thanks to his advice, I saved my dryer! It cost me less than $20 to fix it!

To hopefully help others, I documented my repair with comments and pictures at:
How To Fix A Squeaky Dryer (http://www.parker-house.net/articles/DryerRepair/DryerFix.php)

Just repaired our dryer using appleguy's instructions, very easy to follow.

Some notes:
- the idler pulley is spring loaded. When you remove the spring be prepared for the parts around it to fall out/down. If you have a rear fan panel on the back side, it may be easier for you to access the idler this way. Take a picture of what the pulley looks like before you remove the spring.
- the smaller bearing was completely gone (ground away) so we were unsure where the new one went, but we figured it out
- you will need new screws. Buy some 10 x1/2 and a few nuts. We used hex washer heads.
- when you are re-assembling the drum it will appear to hang too low and angle slightly. This will fix itself when you put the front panel back on.

great detailed explanation of what needs to be done, thanks again.

Thanks for the info on the repair. My dryer is quiet again!

I was looking at new dryers when I found this site.

I have a Maytag Performa mde3500ayw that needs a rear bearing (it’s squeaking). Is the part that I’m looking for?

Maytag 12001541 Bearing Roller Drum Assembly, Maytag 12001541 at PartStore.com (http://www.partstore.com/Part/Maytag/Maytag/12001541/New.aspx?ModelMfgName=Maytag&ModelBrandName=Maytag&ModelNumber=MDE3500AYW)

My Kenmore Laundry Center dryer began to make a loud squeak. It is 13 years old. I went online and studied up on possible troubleshooting ideas. Appleguy seemed to strongly feel that it was a bearing issue. I read his instructions and while they were detailed- I was not up to the challenge. One other post caught my eye. I think that Marth said that her daughter suggested finding a place in the back where the dryer moves and see if you can lube there. It just couldn't be that easy. So I called the repair man and paid $29 to have him tell me that it was as Appleguy stated- a bearing problem. His estimate was $200 for the repair. I do not have $200 at this time for a dryer repair on a 13 year old machine! Desperate, I went to DoItCenter and purchased a white lithium grease spray with a long straw nozzle like a WD-40 can. Next, I rotated the Laundry Center to access the rear of the unit and saw 3 holes where the dryer barrell assembly would be. Then, I sprayed some grease into each of the three holes. Guess what, it worked. As I type my dryer is working without any noise. Thanks Marth!! My wife wanted me to sign up and tell this story so it can hopefully help someone in the future. So, try this first before even calling a repair guy for an estimate.:)

No grease,no oil,just a great dry lube. (NO LINT STICKING.)Been using it for years. See if you can find it locally at the hardware store.

Amazon.com: Elmer's E450 Slide-All Dry Spray Lubricant 4-Ounce: Home Improvement (http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E450-Slide-All-Lubricant-4-Ounce/dp/B000BXOESU)

I'm an idiot with fixing things, but I followed the instructions on this thread, and 2 1/2 hours and $29 later, my dryer is quiet again. There's really nothing about this project that's all that hard, just a number of things that take a little figuring out (kind of tricks of the trade). I bet I could do it in less than half the time if I did it again.

For nonexpert, it sounds like you found the back side of the drum bearing - on the back of the dryer, in the middle, there's a little metal plate about 2 inches wide and about 1/2 inch high that runs horizontally, there's probably a little metal tab sticking out below it, and it has a hole in the middle. If you look in that hole, you'll see a little ball, that's the back side of the drum bearing, if you could go through that metal ball and inside your dryer, you'd be in the cradle that's referred to above, so if that's where you're putting the grease, then you're greasing the bearing.

I don't see why you couldn't fix it yourself...it's not really that difficult, but it can really be a bonus if you can have someone help you hold things together at one point. . . .

I just made an account so I could come here and thank you Applguy! I printed your instructions and ordered the part and it worked!

Just to diagnose it would have cost 20$ more than the price of the parts alone (not including labor). You saved me so much money! Thank you again!

I would like to mention that for those of you on this thread that are dealing with the kenmore stacking laundry center (I believe that the GE is the same unit), if you are only spraying teflon lube or WD40 on the small metal ball on the back of the dryer, you are not lubricating the bearing or solving the problem, you are only silencing the indicator that tells you that the rear drum bearing (which is composed entirely of UHMW plastic) has worn out of limits.

I say this only because I was doing the same thing, and have just replaced the rear bearing, thankfully before any real damage was done. Check out

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/appliances/squeaky-dryer-kenmore-stackable-30786.html

sketts

Hi Applguy,

I too have a Frigidaire fde216res1 , I followed your instructions but got stuck at the point where I have to lift the drum for inspecting the bearings. I thought it is required to remove the back panel to for accessing the bearing and removed a couple of screws. Now when I rotate the drum manually , it makes much horrible noise than earlier. I am not able to pull the drum off as you've mentioned. Awaiting your response.

Applguy,

Your directions were great and my wife and I replaced the entire kit ($35.00) in one night. A couple of notes... If you replace the main drum support ball/flange... Good luck getting the new screws in.. They are cheap self-tapping screws with phillips heads... I had to start the screws through with vice grips to get them in! In addition to that, I lacerated two fingers on the inside of the back cabinet... Be careful! As for the rest... Pretty much a piece of cake as long as you don't lose that tiny little ball bearing...

Bottom line... It runs like new. Thanks again!

Besides pre-threading the screws, I have found that when attaching the bearing to the back of the drum, if you don't have anyone to hold it while you start the screws, surprise ! One more use for "Duct Tape." I also have a magnet from an old speaker that I place in the fall path of small screws, etc. sure was nice to find that little ball bearing that got away just sitting there on the magnet!

Great advice! I replaced the rear bearing using the rear bearing kit on my GE dryer and the squeak is gone. Also replaced the felt/drum glide and belt, but the bearing was the cause of the squeak. The 3 screws that go through the back of the drum are tough to get in. I finally used a tiny bit of the lubricant that came with the bearing kit and the screws went right in.

Thanks Appleguy, we did it too. A word of help to others: Home Depot and/or Lowe's don't carry dryer parts. You will have to find a parts store and get one from there. Our was $60.00 including the tax. (Looks like a $4.00 part- Ha) This will save you some time. It is a 2 person job just for attaching the new bearing part becasuse one person has to hold it on the back of the drum while the other attaches the screws from the inside. Now to start washing the pile of clothes.

Hey appleguy... i have a maytag... bout 5 yrs old... do you have directions for that or is it pretty much the same thing... great site, btw! :cool:

i don't see why you couldn't fix it yourself...it's not really that difficult, but it can really be a bonus if you can have someone help you hold things together at one point. It (the dryer) is serviced from the front. The part number you will likely need is 5303281153. This is a kit that contains every part that could possibly need to be replaced when dealing with a rear drum bearing. First, unplug the dryer from the outlet or remove power at the breaker/fuse panel. To raise the top of the dryer, insert a putty knife into the crack between the top and the front panel and push against the spring clips to release them. There are two clips, anywhere from 23 to 8 inches in from the sides. You should be able to feel the spring tension when you push on them. Push one in slightly, and raise that side, then the same for the other end of the main top. Once the top is up, you will disconnect the wires to the door switch (right side, on the backside of the front panel), if there are 3, mark them somehow to get them back correctly, if only 2 wires, no need as location makes no difference. Then remove the phillips screw holding the yellow tab-looking plastic thing front and center in the top of the front panel. Then remove the 2 screws holding the front panel to the side panels, screw heads are inside the cabinet, screws pointing towards you. Pull the front panel away and lift off the bottom clips to remove. Now remove the belt from the idler pulley. The idler is located right behind the blower/motor unit. Make sure to note how the belt goes around the idler so you get it back on right. Once the belt is free, slide the belt to the back edge of the drum and, using it as a handle (on the top side of the drum), lift straight up to disengage the rear bearing from the cradle. This can be a very tight fit, especially if it worn badly. You may have to pull relatively hard. Once done, the drum will pull out through the front of the cabinet. Now you can see the drum support ball on the back of the drum and the cradle that holds it. Simply keep note of how you remove the cradle from the back wall to reassemble it correctly (this is where 4 hands are better than 2 and don't loose track of the ground bearing from the back). Using a small drop of supplied grease to keep the bearing in the plastic cradle makes reassembly much easier. As far as the post on the back of the drum is concerned, if the new and old parts look absolutely identical, leave it alone and just clean it up good. If you must change it (another place where 4 hands are better than 2), be very careful with the new screws, because they are cheap and the heads strip almost instantly. Put a generous portion of supplied grease into the cradle and reassemble the dryer. Good luck, and if you see something that doesn't look right or confuses you, let me know.

Hey appleguy... I have a maytag... bout 5 yrs old... do you have directions for that or is it pretty much the same thing... great site, by the way!

I did change the wheel as appleguy stated also cleaned the dryer from all that lint, however the noise is still there with a new knocking sound.. Help!!

Could it be because I'm missing this tape around this circle that fits into the drum? But in never opened the dryer before and its missing could it have been rubbing off.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i227/Alcapone80/dryer2.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i227/Alcapone80/dryer1.jpg

Also when I tilt the dryer twards its back the noise screaching noise goes away.. it sounds like metal is rubbing on metal

Yep you need to replace it and it is available in a kit form.

I found the problem it's the drum rubbing against the white plastic pin on top. The drum is missing most of the bottom felt. I opened the top while the dryer is on (bad thing to do) but I had to do something I couldn't go to sleep without knowing the source of the noise. So the drum is not balanced and rubs against the white plastic pin...

How can this be solved?
Can the pin be removed? Is it necessary?

The felt acts like a bearing for the front of the drum. It must be replaced.

My Westinghouse was squeaking so LOUDLY, so I read all these first and tried the WD-40 before I called the repair person! It worked! Running more quietlying than it has in years!:)

Appleguy- Would you think this would be the same problem if it were a Kenmore dryer, DWXR473ET5WW ?

I have a maytag dryer about seven years. Works great except for this high pitch squeeking. Usually after about ten minutes it stops and as long as we don't let it cool down it works. Wnen it first starts it will drive you carzy. Any ideas what it might be would be appreciated.

Applguy totally saved my dryer but please understand, I read this thread some time ago and ordered the parts back then. Since then, I did not replace the part but instead tried the wd40 trick. It did cover up the noise but do not be fooled to think that it fixes the problem. You are only masking the symptom (the squeak) instead of fixing the problem.

Initially, before I ordered the parts, I took the drum out of my dryer to inspect the parts and see if they looked like they needed replacing. So I could continue to do laundry while waiting (without the squeak) I applied the lubricant to the bearing area and stuck the thing back together.

The wd540 worked so well that I became less enthusiastic about pulling it back apart when the parts did arrive so they sat on the top of my dryer for a few months. First the squeak came back (a little at first then pretty loud... sounded like we had a huge hampster running on a wheel when I dried clothes). After a few months I also noticed the dryer spinning slower and the clothes getting really hot (I think because the air sat on them longer than it should have because the drum was spinning so slow.

Finally, I broke down and pulled it apart. You wouldn't believe the metal round peg that comes out of the back of the drum was now cylindrical rather than round, it had totally melted and changed form. I was definitely on course for burning up my motor if I would have just ignored the symptom and applied more wd40!

When applying the new parts you DEFINITELY need 2 people. My 12 year old son worked fine. It wasn't totally easy but I finished it in one evening. The parts I ordered came with the metal peg part that screws to the back of the drum... PLEASE ADVISE I took a pair of channel locks and pre threaded those screws into the back of that part first because they simply weren't going in any other way. That was the only part that almost made us give up. When I found that other people had to do this on this thread, it saved me again. The belt is sort of a pain to get back on but if you can reach your arm back in there (and most people are stronger than me... I can assure you... also have longer arms and fingers would've helped) and use a screwdriver as a lever to get it up and around the pulleys. I just felt my way around and it worked okay.:)

Now it works like a dream!

Oh, and FYI, I am a mom with little to no experience fixing this sort of stuff... just like to give it a shot first.

Another new registration just to thank you Applguy! Less than an hour to fix, and the parts were delivered quick from PartAdvantage. Not sure if anyone else posted the link for them but here it is for Fridgidaire model FER641F50:
FER641FS0 | Part Advantage : Appliance Model Lookup (http://lookup.partadvantage.com/lookup/frigidaire/16552/00086290)
Again, many thanks Applguy!:)

Also like to jump in to thank applguy for the help and add a follow-up. I did successfully replace the part as described here and got rid of the squeaking sound.

I'm now occasionally getting a rhythmic thump when the dryer is running. Not all the time, sometimes it starts with it and then it stops, sometimes the opposite.

I did take it apart again, added a bit more lube in, but I can't find where it may be hitting to cause this thump. Any ideas of where to look?

mkettelhake1, Thanks for the website for parts. Should I purchase just the "Rear Bearing Kit" for my squeaky dryer or will I need more than that?

Just wanted to say thanks to the appleguy--heres another registration from a happy dryer fixer!! Ordered the part online and it was here in two days and the dryer was fixed by myself in about an hour and 15 minutes... thanks again Appleguy from another happy mother!! :)

Hi There. My 3 year old Frigidaire dryer is making a high pitched noise like everyone else's... but no one else has mentioned their clothes burning? As soon as the squeeling started, I have had about 3 or 4 items of clothing have holes burnt in them and plastic zippers melted. Are these problems related, or do I have two different problems?

I googled "squeaky dryer" when mine started to make this same noise and found this forum. I took the advice of applguy and ordered the rear bearing kit (on amazon.com), followed his excellent directions, and replaced the bearing, cradle, and drum support post in about 30 minutes. The hardest part was getting the belt back on... it required me using both hands, one on each side of the blower, to stretch it around the wheels while keeping it all in place.

I encourage anyone who is moderately handy to take this project on! And I recommend an extra set of hands as was mentioned here before, although it would be possible to do yourself if needed.

jjperymn: to answer your question about the heat... mine was soing the same thing. I would think it's the same problem. If your bearing is worn enough it will generate a lot of heat as it grinds. I did notice a few burn marks on clothes.

I used to have the squeak and waited and waited and researched a solution and did not follow up :(
Now the squeak is gone, should I be worried?

I repaired mine (a stackable dryer) a couple years ago. It took a bit of patience, but was well worth it. The repair is much easier when the dryer is separate, apparently, but the parts are virtually identical. Here's a link (http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=837.0) where I posted comments and photos.

Definitely fix it if the squeal is getting worse. Also, when you do the repair, you'll have the opportunity to clean out all the lint that's accumulated throughout the dryer. Mine dried so much more efficiently after cleaning all the old stuff out, it was like having a new dryer.

Thank you for posting this. I was able to purchase the bearing kit for my Fridgidaire stackable laundry center and followed your step by step instructions. It was a very easy repair. The hardest part was lifting the drum off the old bearing because it was so corroded and fused to the plastic housing. I needed two people to hoist the drum out. Once it was off it was very clear cut. Great tip about seating the ground bearing with lubrication to keep it in place. The kit cost $32. And I am grateful that I saved several hundred dollars and I gained an education. Thanks again for sharing this.

OK, so I love this site and it sounds like my problem BUT- my husband says "order the parts and I'll fix it" so I go to kemore's website and can't find a "rear drum bearing" anything. I am not mechanical at all- and I can just hear it now if I order the wrong part and he has the dryer taken apart and it's the wrong part- & I won't have a dryer until the new (correct) part comes in- SO I need to make sure I order the right part... can anyone help? I have a Kenmore Elite He4 model 110.85866401 and its sqealing loud like everyone is talking about. I just want to make sure I get the right part- then I can get this squealing that is driving me crazy to stop and look smart to DH :-)
Thanks!

Any time you work on a drier and have the drum out you should use the opportunity to clean out all of the hardened on lint and dirt to prevent a future repair or fire. DrTom4444

That was a smart move to clean it out while you had it apart. I have found many driers by the side of the road where the only problem was dirt. I have never had to buy one because all I had to do was pick one up for free until the price of scrap rose. DrTom4444

Your dryer drum is supported by two wheels underneath rather than a central bearing. On the Sears site search for "support". This might be a good alternative: http://repair2000.com/tuneup.html

I followed applguy's advice and repaired my Kenmore dryer in about an hour. The part number he listed was bang-on with the part store's inventory. I also found a nice YouTube video that shows the exact steps:

YouTube - Dryer Drum Bearing Kit Replacement (part #5303281153) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67hOqSFnX8g)

Folks, Does anyone know if this fix will work for BOSCH NEXXT Dryer. Ours is sooo loud, it wakes the kids up from the basement to the second floor

It sounds like the main bearing on the end of the drum. Look at the YouTube video to see how to change it. It's not a hard thing to do. About all you need is a screwdriver set or one with several tips to change it. It's very easy to do. DrTom4444

I changed the drum bearing in about 2 hours. The only hard part was getting the drum off the old bearing because it was melted. So it needed a lot of force to pull it up and off. The new bering was very easy to install. My dryer works like new again. Any DIY er can definitely tackle this project and you will feel good that you did it at a cost of about $35.00.

You may have saved our lives and our house. Yes, the dryer was squeaking, yes I changed the parts out (2 hours). But the bottom of the case was 3 inches of felted lint. There was evidence inside of chared lint.
All clean now

I have a Frigidaire Affinity electric dryer (AEQ6000ES2). I had the squeak problem, and I fixed it with the rear bearing kit as AppleGuy suggested. I must have made some error however, as now my dryer makes a knocking sound when it runs. There doesn't seem to be anything otherwise functionally wrong, and the knocking is less annoying than the squeal, but I am hoping (begging) that someone can help me out with how this new problem may have happened... Thank you in advance. My frustration level it nearing its peak.

Your drier has overheated and melted the white grease from around the rear bearing which ruined it. Replace the bearing and clean out all parts with water except motor. This includes duct work and blower fan. This lint builds up and is like concrete which burns. Look on YouTube for instructions; it's easy to do. Look through all parts to get them clean, and replace belt, too. DrTom4444

Yes, you are right on. I changed the rear drum bearing and the squeaking is completely gone. The job was very easy to do with the correct replacement part. Thank you for your input.

Have same problem as post from 5/8/2011 - I replaced the rear bearing on a Frigidaire dryer - and now I have the "knocking" sound - I unplugged the dryer - checked that the belt looks like it's all happy and in the right place, pulleys, etc. then I rotated the drum by hand - when it gets to a certain point in the rotation - there's a loud pop - what have I done? Been w/o dryer for a week now and about to pull my hair out - please appleguy, save my hair & sanity!

Having same problem as kathymr - I replaced the rear bearing - now there's a knock. I unplugged the dryer, opened the back to make sure the belt and pulleys looked happy - they did - so I rotated the drum by hand - when it gets to a certain point in the rotation - there's a loud pop - what did I do wrong. Granted, I had a helluva time getting the rear bearing installed - ended up taking the drum out putting in on it's "head" duck taping the new bearing into place to secure the screws - then very carefully put the drum back in and popped the rear bearing into place, while attached to the drum. Aye - been w/o my dryer for a week and just about to pull my hair out now that I've made it better & worse at the same time!

Well - I just figured out my drum bearing ball fell out & that probably has something to do with the noise I have - going to get at it again tomorrow...

I've had the same problem for over month now. Turn the dryer on and squill for 10 sec. then 20 sec. and now up to 45 sec.. . I read about 10 postings or so then I thought... white lithium grease it says it can handle high temp./automotive conditions. So I tried it on the 2 support wheels I could see from the low front door and it squeaked softly for about 2 sec. and hasn't sense. Of course I've only ran 3 loads and with my luck it will catch fire soon as I think everything's run good, but figurad I put my 2 sense in way down here if anyone makes it to the bottom of threads.
Good luck with however you go about fixing your own death squeak.

p.s. it took me about 3 min. cause I had the grease.

The white lithium grease is what is used on driers. You may be able to grease all bearings and cure the problem, but it sure needs disassembling and cleaning first. You probably have two inches of dirt on everything that will catch fire. Clean it out and wash out every part that air goes through and vacuum out motor. Then grease all bearings with white lithium grease and it will be like new again. DrTom4444

Mine was squeaking too so I opened the top but could not really determine the source of the squeak- was it the bearing or felt or belt? So before I started the hassled of removing the drum, etc, I found something to try- get a bar of soap and 'lube' the belt with it. Guess what- it worked!

Thank YOU!! My dryer has made a noise (intermittent), but my wife said we have to do something about it. Even two women could do this successfully. No real heavy lifting. The drum is light. The repair was very simple, and no special tools needed. A bonus was being able to vacuum out the interior of the dryer itself with ease. Cost $25.00 and about an hour of my time. Think what the repairman would have charged, and I doubt he would have cleaned out the dryer casing or given Mrs. Homeowner the opportunity to clean it out.

I am a small woman and I did this repair without any assistance. I was easy and actually fun to see how everything works. Now I am able to make repairs to many other components of the dryer if ever needed. Plus I have a super clean dryer.

Sounds like you need to disassemble it again because the bearing is not installed right or something is loose. Take it apart and turn motor and blower and see if there is noise; if not the problem is in the drum. I have seen others make a mistake and cause the same symptom. DrTom4444

Here's a new addition on all of the great solutions noted over the last 5 plus years on this site. I had the same problem with a high pitched squeal on our Amana "commercial quality" dryer. After pulling it apart and checking the drum rollers and the tension pulley for the drum belt they all seemed to be okay with no flat spots or loose bearings. However noticing that the motor also turns a hamster cage fan that blow out all the hot air I heard a rattle in the bottom of the housing for this. When taking this apart I embarrasingly pulled out over 3 dollars in change along with small hearing aid batteries, assorted pen parts and buttons. Put it all back together and it has run perfectly ever since!

It's the rear bearing, you can BET, because THAT'S the most difficult part to access. I've done my rear bearing two or three times and front glide too. The above explanation is good, in that it explains how dirt and dust access the bearing, otherwise, it's basically the same bearing which carries a quarter ton of weight on each wheel in your car, and they last almost forever. The hardest part for me was figuring out how to get to it. Once I paid a handyman to do the job and saw how, I have done it myself. Just as well, as he dropped one of the screws holding the cap on, and replaced it with one of a different thread which fell out a few days later, I had to dismantle the dryer, which was when I found the screw he'd lost.

While I'm at it I have to add... we bought one of those energy water efficient washers from Sweden. Same dang bearing went bad, it was a front loader. I called a repair guy who said $95 to trouble shoot it which is deductible from the repair. I said it's the main bearing no need to trouble shoot. They insisted, so I handed over my credit card. They left and said the office would give me a price for repair tomorrow. Then they dropped the bomb. $500 to fix it! You can't change JUST the bearing it's a big unit with the bearing in it. So there goes my $95 down the crapper. NOT going to spend $500 on a $700 machine. I junked it and will NEVER buy a front load washer again. Don't get sucked into this scam. So.. now I'm off to the bearing warehouse where I can get the automotive version of the dryer bearing for way less money.

The automotive bearing is a good idea, and there are different types and grades of bearings that you can buy. We have several bearing supply houses in Jacksonville, FL where I learned to buy the right bearing, improving on the original many times. You should be able to buy one better than the one that came with the dryer, perhaps one made in the US, Germany, or Israel. Heat and the lack of lubrication ruins bearings. I don't know if it is possible to get a good sealed bearing to do the job, but you can ask the dealer.

Do you repair dryers in los angels?

No, I am in Jacksonville, FL. You are in a state that has too many taxes for me to work or live in. Our taxes are about 1/8 of what they are in California.

Lotta - you are a genius! Yesterday I found a piece of plastic in the dryer - tossed in the trash. Loud screech when I turned the dryer back on.

After reading one of your possibilities ("A another is where the drum rides on the upper round part of the door/opening and it has a plastic guide that separates the metal drum from the metal door/opening. Over time this wears out and the two metal pieces will squeak"), I pulled it out of the trash, looked at the rim, found where a piece was missing, and reinserted the plastic piece; peace and quiet here now! I don't know how long it will last, but now I know what the problem was!

Thanks so much!

Ann

I am glad you found the problem. You can buy that piece cheaply or just glue it on until you tear it down next year to clean it.

I don't see why you couldn't fix it yourself...it's not really that difficult, but it can really be a bonus if you can have someone help you hold things together at one point. It (the dryer) is serviced from the front. The part number you will likely need is 5303281153. This is a kit that contains every part that could possibly need to be replaced when dealing with a rear drum bearing. First, unplug the dryer from the outlet or remove power at the breaker/fuse panel. To raise the top of the dryer, insert a putty knife into the crack between the top and the front panel and push against the spring clips to release them. There are two clips, anywhere from 23 to 8 inches in from the sides. You should be able to feel the spring tension when you push on them. Push one in slightly, and raise that side, then the same for the other end of the main top. Once the top is up, you will disconnect the wires to the door switch (right side, on the backside of the front panel), if there are 3, mark them somehow to get them back correctly, if only 2 wires, no need as location makes no difference. Then remove the phillips screw holding the yellow tab-looking plastic thing front and center in the top of the front panel. Then remove the 2 screws holding the front panel to the side panels, screw heads are inside the cabinet, screws pointing towards you. Pull the front panel away and lift off the bottom clips to remove. Now remove the belt from the idler pulley. The idler is located right behind the blower/motor unit. Make sure to note how the belt goes around the idler so you get it back on right. Once the belt is free, slide the belt to the back edge of the drum and, using it as a handle (on the top side of the drum), lift straight up to disengage the rear bearing from the cradle. This can be a very tight fit, especially if it worn badly. You may have to pull relatively hard. Once done, the drum will pull out through the front of the cabinet. Now you can see the drum support ball on the back of the drum and the cradle that holds it. Simply keep note of how you remove the cradle from the back wall to reassemble it correctly (this is where 4 hands are better than 2 and don't loose track of the ground bearing from the back). Using a small drop of supplied grease to keep the bearing in the plastic cradle makes reassembly much easier. As far as the post on the back of the drum is concerned, if the new and old parts look ABSOLUTELY identical, leave it alone and just clean it up good. If you must change it (another place where 4 hands are better than 2), be very careful with the new screws, because they are cheap and the heads strip almost instantly. Put a generous portion of supplied grease into the cradle and reassemble the dryer. Good luck, and if you see something that doesn't look right or confuses you, let me know.

APPLGUY, Do you have a similar solution for this same problem on a Kenmore HE4 gas dryer?