Hi everyone,

This is my first question on the forum so here goes...

A while back I installed a Leviton PR180 Motion Detector Light Switch in my laundry room and it worked beautifully.

Earlier today I installed a 2-bulb fluorescent fixture in place of the incandescent fixture and this is where my problems started.

When you walk into the room, the light comes on but flickers and the ballast buzzes. The only way to make it stop is to turn on the switch manually.

If you wait for the lamp to go off, one of the bulbs stays very dimly lighted while the other on goes off. All lamps go off if you manually turn off the switch.

At first I thought the motion sensor was akin to a dimmer and would not work with fluorescent lighting but the switch case plainly states incandescent or fluorescent.

It is a single switch and wired normally using the red, black and green wires. The yellow wire is capped off.

If anyone else has had this problem and discovered a fix, please let me know. I love the switch but I also need fluorescent lighting in my laundry room. I am old and blind. :confused:

Take care and thanks in advance,
CharlieMac

A relay would work, the output would place solid connection as opposed to the Triac.

I'm not sure if it's that or optical feedback. Shield the motion detector from the fluorescent light source and see what happens.

I'm not sure if it's that or optical feedback. Shield the motion detector from the florescent light source and see what happens.

At first I thought your were on to something. The switch had been off all night and when I first switched it to the sensor position the light came on as always (flickering and buzzing).

I placed my hand over the sensor and the light immediately brightened and stopped flickering.

However, when the timer turned it off, one of the bulbs stayed partially lighted (just one end of a 4' tube).

With my hand still covering the sensor, the light immediately came back on and started flickering again.

I then placed a 3X5 white index card over the sensor and then a red plastic cup covering the sensor. Nothing changed.

I distinctly remember walking into public restrooms and a sensor turning on fluorescent lighting. There has to be an answer to this.

If tkrussell doesn't have a better idea, try the relay.

A relay would work, the output would place solid connection as opposed to the Triac.

Thanks Strat,

Since I am not exactly sure how relays work I am going to dig into this a little more.

I saw on the Leviton website where the PR180 works with a 'rapid start magnetic ballast' only. I am going to assume that all modern fluorescent lighting uses a rapid start magnetic ballast (at least until I can get the ladder back out and look at the ballast to verify).

Leviton also has a relay pak available but the site was unclear as to just what it does. I am going to call their customer service Monday morning.

Good catch on the magnetic ballast. Most likely you have an electronic ballast, which are very common nowadays.

Public restrooms would be using a commercial sensor, and probably using a relay pack to switch the lighting, that is most likely 277 volts.

If you would like to see better information on sensors and relays, try Sensor Switch, Inc. (http://www.sensorswitch.com).

And they are made in the USA!

While Leviton makes a decent product, their instructions, manuals, and tech support is a bit weak. And made off shore... hmmm I wonder where? Does everyone like Chinese food?

Many sensors also require a minimum amount of load to work properly. So believe it or not, while you need to insure the load is not too great, a sensor may not work if you only use it to control one small light fixture, and require a relay pack to do the actual switching.

If you would like to see better information on sensors and relays, try Sensor Switch, Inc. (http://www.sensorswitch.com).



I went to the Sensor Switch website and found the WSD-SA, The key features says it has a self-contained relay with no power pack needed.

Is this what I need?

BTW, I love their website content but they need to sell online.

Thanks...

The coil of the relay connects to the neutral and the line that went to fixture hot.
The Normally open contacts connects to a hot wire, and the common goes up to the light fixture.
So, when sensor is triggered, powers the relay coil, making contact between a hot and light fixture hot.

In the mean time, you can try paralleling a bulb with the fluorescent light load. You might even be able to get buy with a night light.

I just installed the PR180

It's not the load, even with a big load such as two 42 watt GE CFL units (84 watts) on the same line the flickering remains.

It's a power modulation issue, the motion switch is "switching" the power to the lights at a high frequency, the electronics in the CFL can't handle this type of "switched" power.

You need a relay.

Here's a link to explain what a "switching" power supply is:

Switched-mode power supply - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply)

I don't have room in the switch box to fit a relay so I'll have to find a motion sensor with relay incorporated.

Good luck

The Leviton PR180 and PR150 do NOT work with CFL bulbs or with fluorescent fixtures with modern electronic ballasts. The buzzing and flickering you describe is a dead giveaway and is described in the Leviton Q&A:


Frequently Asked Questions from Leviton Electrical (http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section=17233&minisite=10021)


Leviton recommends the (much more expensive) ODS10 and ODS15 models for CFL and electronic ballast lights. These have a built-in relay rather than using electronic load switching.

A relay should allow the use of flourescents, with no flickering or erratic operation.

I tried this out a couple of years back and found that the electroics in the motions conflict with those in the electronic ballasts. I tried several different brand of motions and consulted the manufactures and none of them offered any help. I am now in the process of seeing if they have overcome this issue.
The only solution that would work is to istall a relay as already stated. This would go between the switch leg and the light fixtures.

I just talked to tech support at watt stopper and they say that they have over come this problem us a rs 250 switch