[knightpitt]

Well, now that I’ve realized just how helpful this forum is, I’ll bother you folks with another question…

I’m installing a gas dryer in my new house. This place, to my knowledge, has never had a dryer before. I’m not too concerned about running the gas lines (well, slightly concerned, but I figure they can’t be *that* bad). What I’m worried about is running the dryer vent to the outside. My choices are either through glass block or through some concrete cinderblocks and then brick on the outside. The company that installed the radon system in the house before I bought it decided that the cinderblock/brick route was acceptable, and they did a good job. I’m thinking of doing the same, but I have no idea what they used to drill a nice, round 4” hole through all of that. I have a hammerdrill at my disposal… but I’m not sure that’s enough. Any tips/ideas?

[speedball1]

You do realize that your gas line will be black iron or copper? If copper all your joints must be flared fittings, no solder joints or solder fittings.
Perhaps Rick or labman knows how to make a vent hole through glass blocks but I don't think a hammer drill will be the answer. Good luck on your new project. Tom

[labman]

Likely the radon contractor used a core drill, or even paid a specialist. You could do the same, many rental yards have them. They have a closed metal cylinder with diamond teeth at the bottom. Use the hammer drill to drill a hole to bolt the core drill to the wall. If you have room inside, it saves leaving a hole in the brick. You could drill a circle of small holes with the hammer drill. The flange on the vent would hide the rough hole. You could remove one of the glass blocks, run the vent through it, and fill in around with mortar.

Do not use galvanized pipe. Most places that sell black iron pipe also cut and thread it. I like the cream in a tube like Loc-tite Pipe-X better than Teflon tape. Use ball valves. They are much easier to use and leak less than the common gate valves. Look for one that says WOG on it, water, oil, and gas.

[knightpitt]

You could remove one of the glass blocks, run the vent through it, and fill in around with mortar.

Here's a ridiculous question. How would I go about removing a glass block? I think that would be a lot easier than the method of drilling a bunch of smaller holes through concrete and brick. The glass block window is also in just about the ideal location for the dryer vent regardless.

Thanks for the heads up about the pipe as well. I figured that I'd have to get threads cut in whatever I'd purchase and that I'd have to use some sort of thread sealant.

And, for what it's worth, thanks so much guys for chiming in and offering advice to everyone!! It's really, really great of you to offer advice to people that you never met and to share your time and expertise like that. I have to say that it is *very* appreciated.

[labman]

I guess you could carefully chip out the mortar, or maybe use a masonry blade in a saw, or I think they make bits for that for routers. Or if you smashed it with a hammer, I think the break would stop at the mortar joint.

After my last post, I thought about going through the wall below the brick, and up the outside of the wall. You could just smash a hole through he cinder block and then mortar around it. It might look strange, but you could plant a bush in front of it.

[theBigkill]

Hi id recommend not using teflon tape or any pipe sealant (or dope) with teflon in it (its probably forbidden by the gas code in your area anyways), but rather a liquid thread sealant that says it is rated specially for natural gas on the side of the can.
Good luck!