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    flyboys62's Avatar
    flyboys62 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 22, 2012, 12:10 PM
    Do I need a new well
    How do I know if I need a new well as I was told by a well co. I have plenty of water even while washer, shower and dishwasher are all running at same time but my pump kicks on every 2-3 minutes
    tickle's Avatar
    tickle Posts: 23,796, Reputation: 2674
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    #2

    Jan 22, 2012, 03:34 PM
    Your pump should not be kicking in that often, probably what they mean. The capacity isn't there anymore.
    flyboys62's Avatar
    flyboys62 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 23, 2012, 07:10 AM
    Thanks you
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,019, Reputation: 157
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    #4

    Jan 23, 2012, 04:47 PM
    Hold on a minute. I can't see why you need a new well when the current one is supplying plenty of water. I would first check two areas.

    1. Turn on a faucet in the house. Watch your pressure gauge until you hear the switch "click" to turn on the pump. Write that pressure down. Then turn off the faucet and let the pump get up to cut off pressure. Write that down as well. You should have about a 20# difference. Do you? If not, then you have a problem with your switch.
    2. If you do have the twenty pound difference, then your tank becomes the suspect. How big is it? You should be able to run at least five or six gallons, if not considerably more, between the pump cutting off and then back on. If you are not getting that kind of volume, then it is quite possible your tank is bad. How old is it?
    3. One more question. When you are not using water, does the system hold pressure?

    Again, I'm not sure why anyone would think for even one second you need a new well when you are getting plenty of water from your well.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #5

    Jan 23, 2012, 06:19 PM
    I agree completely jl. My two cents. And remember this all depends on the size of your current pressure tank. I don't think two to thee minutes is bad at all for a pump to be kicking in. How long does the pump run before kicking out? Two to three minute cycling is rather normal on a residential system. Can you let us know more about your concerns?
    flyboys62's Avatar
    flyboys62 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jan 23, 2012, 06:38 PM
    The system holds pressure like I said there's plenty of water and pressure the pump runs for approx 2 minutes before kicking out its kicking on at 53-55 off at 59-60

    But the pumps is kicking in without any water being used like there's a leak somewhere but there are no leaks
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,019, Reputation: 157
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    #7

    Jan 23, 2012, 07:23 PM
    First thing. Your switch must be defective. Most switches come out of the box with a 20# differential. They are 40/60, 30/50, and so forth. I'd put on a new switch since they are 20 bucks or so and not hard to replace if you are a little comfortable with electrical wiring.

    You said the system holds pressure, but then you said the pump kicks on when no water is being used. That means you do have a leak. The question is, where?
    Do you have a cutoff valve on the pipe to the house? If so, then turn off water to the house and see if the pump continues to cycle. If it does, then the leak is in the well, possibly a leaking checkvalve. If it does not, then the leak is in the house.

    BTW, is your pump in the well, or above ground?
    flyboys62's Avatar
    flyboys62 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Jan 23, 2012, 07:38 PM
    The switch I bought was a 30 50 but I jacked it up to 40-60 or so. The pump is above ground in the crawl space I did shut the water to the house and the pump still cycled on and off should I turn the switch back down to were it belongs would that have anything to do with it
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,019, Reputation: 157
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    #9

    Jan 24, 2012, 04:17 AM
    If the pump continues to cycle when the water to the house is turned off, then there is a leak in the well. Probably it is a leaking checkvalve. A CV is a one way valvel that allows the pump (I am assuming the pump is in the well) to pump water into the pressure tank, but does not allow the water in the tank to run back down into the well once the pump turns off. That explains why your pump is cycling so frequently.

    You have evidently gotten your switch messed up by trying to adjust it. You tried to go to 40/60, but you said above you are cutting in at low fifty pounds and cutting out at high fifty pounds. So if I were you, and I was certain of the cutin/cutout points you listed above, I'd do this. First I would turn off the power. Then I'd turn the small nut on the switch clockwise a couple of complete turns. That will raise the cut off pressure and increase the difference between cut in and cut out pressures. As I said earlier, you would like for that to be about twenty pounds. Then I'd turn the large nut counter clockwise two full turns. That will lower both the cut in and cut out pressures. Turn the power back on and see what you have now. Keep playing with it until you get 30/50 or 40/60 or whatever you are shooting for. It's a lot of trial and error. The site linked below gives a lot of good info on how it's done.

    But it's the checkvalve that really needs attention. So again, is your pump in the well or above ground? Can you see a checkvalve above ground?

    Good luck. I'll catch up with you again tonight. Can't get to this site at work.

    How to adjust water pump pressure, pump cut-on pressure and pump cut-off pressure - private pump and well system do-it-yourself repairs
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #10

    Jan 24, 2012, 05:24 AM
    How do I know if I need a new well as I was told by a well co.
    Your well guy was blowing smoke up your skirt. I'd look around for a new company.
    Your well sounds fine to me.
    I agree, completely. With jlisenbe.
    If the pump continues to cycle when the water to the house is turned off, then there is a leak in the well. Probably it is a leaking checkvalve.
    It's either a faulty foot/check valve or you have a leak in the suction line.
    As suggested, get a new 40/60 pump control and then leave it alone. Good luck, Tom
    flyboys62's Avatar
    flyboys62 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Jan 24, 2012, 09:56 AM
    Thanks you so much I am familiar with adjusting the settings if I do get that 20# diff will that create a problem with getting water with the pump not kicking on soon enough? Id rather not mess with it because I have good water now and I'm afraid if I do so by the time the pump kicks on there won't be any water to pull up and the pump is above ground and there is no ck valve above ground about 6-7 yrs ago I had a well guy replace the pipe from the well to the pump but I don't know if he installed a ck at the well thxs again for all the info
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,019, Reputation: 157
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    #12

    Jan 24, 2012, 06:26 PM
    You can leave the switch alone if you want to, but the short cycles will wear out your pump faster than necessary. Personally, I'd readjust the switch, or simply replace. You will notice a lower pressure since the pump won't cut on until 40# as opposed to cutting in at the low 50's as it is now.

    From your description, there is either a leak in the footvalve (which is itself a checkvalve) or the wellpipe. That really needs to be addressed. Otherwise, your pump will be cycling 24/7, which is not good.

    How many pipes go into your well, one or two? If two, do you know how deep the well is?
    flyboys62's Avatar
    flyboys62 Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Jan 24, 2012, 07:54 PM
    I'm not sure how many pipes I think just one as I stated a few years ago the guy replaced the pipe from the well to the pump I had that blk farmers irrigation pipe that collapsed every time the pump sucked the water up so he replaced with I think inch and a half pvc and I've never had a problem until now and I'm probably way off with this guess but I remember looking into the hole and seeing the well cap? About 3' deep maybe
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,019, Reputation: 157
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    #14

    Jan 25, 2012, 04:15 AM
    If you're sure the system is not holding pressure when no water is being used and that, even when water to the house is shut off, pressure still drops, then there has to be a leak in the well. If there is only one pipe going into the well, then you can't have much more than twenty feet of so of wellpipe. It will be a fairly easy job to pull it up, double check for possible leaks, and replace the footvalve which is not expensive. A good plumber can do it, or you might just want to try it yourself.

    One more thing. If I had a pump above ground, then I wouldn't worry so much about setting my cutin/cutout pressures rather high. Yes, it will work the pump harder and shorten its life. But replacing it is not a tough job and buying a new pump is a two or three hundred dollar expense. That might sound like a lot, but it's chicken feed compared to having to pull two hundred feet of pipe to replace a submersible pump. Just depends on whether you think it is worth it.

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