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    igot2gonow's Avatar
    igot2gonow Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #21

    Jan 22, 2007, 09:49 PM
    Thanks txgreasemonkey, I found that very informative and helpful.

    Thanks erich1. I was going to replace it and see if that works. Mine is calloed the neutral safety switch and you it probibly is worn out. Currently my car is in the shop getting a tune up and exhaust leak fixed. I have to get it smogged and the last thing I need is for it to get stuck in park during the test. That would give them an excuse to fail me for such a minor thing. Lol. I will replace the switch and post my results.

    Again, thanks
    igot2gonow's Avatar
    igot2gonow Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #22

    Jan 24, 2007, 08:58 PM
    Thanks for the info. From what I can find on this problem on the web, replacing the switch works. Does anyone know why? no. I am a software engineer and there is a logical cause for every problem. Then again, there are problems that can be fixed and we never really know why. I am going to replace the switch and move on. LOL. My switch is called the neutral safety switch, back up light switch and a few others. Regardless, it’s the darn switch in the shifter console that senses the position of the shifter. I will post my results after replacing the switch.

    Again thanks

    Larry
    BurlGrey's Avatar
    BurlGrey Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #23

    Jan 25, 2007, 08:04 PM
    Having the same problem with a stuck shifter...
    I have a 1990 civic (w/ only 92k!) and lately, since moving to the NE where temps are a little colder than out west, the shifter will sometimes lock into Park yet the Park light on the dash does not light up (the key also gets stuck in position I)--this ONLY happens when it's really cold, like below 32 degrees.
    BUT, I just noticied this today (after replacing the ignition coil --separate issue, which is now fixed, whew) when I disconnect the negative battery cable for 20 seconds or so and then reconnect it, the Park light on the dash lights back up and I am able once again to shift out of park...
    I hope this little bit of serendipitous testing is helpful...
    Electrical problem right?

    (btw, the shift release button beside the shifter DOES NOT work during the time the shifter is stuck, which also leads me to believe this is electrical)

    How do you replace the Shift Position Console Switch? And how much $ for the part?
    Thanks,
    ~burl
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #24

    Jan 25, 2007, 08:21 PM
    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post258005
    BurlGrey's Avatar
    BurlGrey Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #25

    Jan 26, 2007, 02:12 PM
    Thanks txgreasemonkey.
    I'm going to look into the automatic trans gear position switch.
    I'll keep you posted as to the results.

    By the way, txgreasemonkey and CroCivic91:
    Love your answers and suggestions. Because of your knowledge and clarity in reply, I've managed to repair (re-soldier) my main relay and replace the ignition coil for separate problems, all w/ success. Just by following the posts on this site.

    Thanks so much!:)

    ~burl
    HWYTOM's Avatar
    HWYTOM Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #26

    Jan 30, 2007, 09:52 AM
    Change ignition switch and key security bolts kind of stink to chisel off though.

    Also some had issues with steering lock interface where the cable don't allow key to be turned off with out it in park,may have shifter in park but there's a steering lock pin that locks into steering plate if its not engaged key won't come out or turn to off,if the steering whel don't lock this is probably the problem.
    Check fuses for this too.
    igot2gonow's Avatar
    igot2gonow Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #27

    Feb 10, 2007, 11:19 PM
    Here is information that I have discovered on the problem.

    I live in Denver, Colorado so it does get cold here. At first I thought the problem was related to engine temp, as I could only get the key out when the engine reached normal operating temp.

    A few weeks ago the lows at night were below zero and the highs were low teens. I had to drive the car extra miles just to warm it up and then still had a hard time with the key. For the past week or so it has warmed up around here and the sun is out everyday. I found that when interior is nice and warm it doesn’t matter if engine is cold or warm, the key comes out. So, the problem does seem to be some what temperature related. I also agree with you on the wear factor. I bought a new switch but haven’t installed yet.

    For what it worth these are my findings.
    cablemonkey's Avatar
    cablemonkey Posts: 5, Reputation: 2
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    #28

    Nov 20, 2011, 05:14 PM
    Hi,

    I just fixed this problem on my '90 Accord. The problem is in the Shift Position Console Switch. This is the switch inside your console that measures the position of the shift lever.

    I had to remove 6 screws to get the console off, then the large white and black switch assembly was fastened to the driver's side of the shift lever assy with two 10mm nuts.

    With the switch removed from the lever assy, I could see that there's a sliding part in it that a post on the shift lever moves so the car can tell electrically where the lever is. I could see some contacts, lots of grease and some dark corrosion products fouling some of the contacts.

    Disconnecting the two wiring connectors allowed me to bring the switch assy inside to have a better look.

    I saw that it's made of three main parts; a white nylon chassis, a small sliding contact block, and a black contact insert with wires soldered to it.

    I carefully pried up one edge of the nylon and eased the black contact insert out. When I got the sliding block out, I could see that it held two small contacts. The larger contact that connects the park position terminals were totally caked with 20 yr old grease and corrosion and didn't move up and down at all.

    I carefully took the contact piece out (! Spring behind it! ), removed all the old caked on grease and corrosion, cleaned it up, cleaned the spring, and cleaned the block. I used a commercial contact cleaner spray and qtips to get into all the nooks and crannies. I wasn't sure what to re-lubricate it with and ended up going with a contact enhancer called Stabilant 22A (because that's what I had handy). When I was done, the contact assy on the sliding block was clean and copper coloured (not dark green as it was when I started) and it was suspended on the spring and moved up and down when pushed. When I started, it was gummed up so badly it was jammed in the lowest position, which would make for the worst possible contact.

    Anyway, I put it all back together, back into the car, and it works great! Just make sure that you have it adjusted so that all gear positions work. There's about 5mm of play built into the mounting holes to allow for a bit of adjustment, so play with this when you're putting it back together.

    All told, it took about 2 hours to fix. This has been bugging me for years and now with winter arriving, I'm glad I finally made the effort to take it apart and clean it up.

    Feel free to email me if you have any questions about the above: cablemonkey at shaw dot ca
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #29

    Nov 20, 2011, 05:40 PM
    Very nice job, cablemonkey.

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