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    wgreen956's Avatar
    wgreen956 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jul 4, 2011, 11:54 AM
    GFI has power but won't work.
    I have a GFI outlet on a covered deck where I have a TV hooked up. I've never had a problem. Just in the last few days the TV wouldn't work. It's not the TV because it powers up on other outlets in the house. The GFI has power coming to it because I tested it with a voltage detector. Thinking it was a worn out GFI, I replaced it with an identical GFI being very careful that wires are hooked up correctly. Same thing is happending. Electrical appliance will not work on the outlet but my voltage detector says there is power. HELP!
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #2

    Jul 4, 2011, 12:14 PM
    Are you sure the GFI insn't ripping? If you are getting voltage and swapped out another GF, you have another issue. I've never seen 2 "bad" ones. Did you press the reset button? Is the incoming wire on the "line" side?
    wgreen956's Avatar
    wgreen956 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jul 4, 2011, 01:31 PM
    Comment on ma0641's post
    I'm certain the GFI isn't tripping - the light does not come on. I've pressed the reset buttion anyway. I'm certain the incoming wire is on the "line" side. This is why I am so confused.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #4

    Jul 4, 2011, 03:07 PM

    I tested it with a voltage detector
    Does that mean you are using a no contact voltage sensor (idiot stick for electricians)? If so, you need to check for voltage between the hot and the neutral with a meter. If the voltage sensor shows voltage but a meter does not show voltage between the hot and the neutral, that would mean that you have open neutral connection somewhere.
    wgreen956's Avatar
    wgreen956 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jul 4, 2011, 03:31 PM
    Comment on hkstroud's post
    Yes, I am using a non-contact sensor. I assume I have to check every outlet in the circuit.
    wgreen956's Avatar
    wgreen956 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jul 4, 2011, 03:32 PM
    Comment on hkstroud's post
    I assume I have to check every outlet in the circuit with a meter.
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #7

    Jul 4, 2011, 04:13 PM
    Use a VOM and measure at outlets on both sides of your suspect one. Then check between hot and neutral on the suspect outlet. What voltage do you get?
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #8

    Jul 4, 2011, 04:23 PM

    Idiot sticks are for, well, mostly idiots. Do not trust one when you can use a meter to confirm a circuit. That stick can confirm power to the GFCI even if you drop your neutral which means you do not have a circuit, this is my suspicion, dropped neutral
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #9

    Jul 4, 2011, 05:20 PM

    No, you must check for voltage between the hot and neutral at the GFI to insure a complete circuit. If you do not have a complete circuit then you can start looking for the loose neutral connection.
    The voltage sensor detects current on the hot conductor by sensing the magnetic field around A/C current. The volt meter measures the difference in voltages between two conductors. If the neutral is not grounded to the neutral buss in the panel the meter will not show any voltage.
    wgreen956's Avatar
    wgreen956 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Jul 9, 2011, 05:06 AM
    Comment on hkstroud's post
    Sorry, out of town for a few days. I checked every outlet in the house and there is power to each one, assuming I'm doing it right. I put one lead of the volt meter in one hole of the plug and the other lead in the other hole.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #11

    Jul 9, 2011, 06:44 AM

    Yes, plugging into the 2 slots should read 120 volts, you should also be able to measure 120 volts between the small slot(hot) and the bigger ground hole. You should have no voltage between the Big sllot(neutral) and ground, as they are connected together at the Service and are at the same potential.
    If you have voltage between the ground and the Large slot(neutral( and not the small slot(hot) then polarity would be reversed.
    You can't "be certain" it is connected to the Line side, you have to be sure. Good Luck
    Many newer GFI's will not trip and reset if no power is going to them.
    wgreen956's Avatar
    wgreen956 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    Jul 10, 2011, 12:01 PM
    Comment on Stratmando's post
    Thanks -same results. I don't understand how it just stops working in a 4 year old house and there are no other electrical problems! I guess I'm going to have to have an electrician come in and look at it. Thanks all for your help!
    wgreen956's Avatar
    wgreen956 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Jul 10, 2011, 12:36 PM
    Comment on Stratmando's post
    It is connected on the Line side. I tried something different. I disconnected the outlet. I then used the volt meter on the bare wires. When I touched black/hot to ground/copper I got 120 volts. When I touched black/hot and white/neutral I got NO volts. Just for giggles I touched white/neutral and ground/copper and NO volts. SInce I can't find any other outlet with a problem I can only assume that the outlet in question is the last in a series and somewhere between it the prior one there is a problem with the white wire. How do you determine which outlet is the prior one?
    wgreen956's Avatar
    wgreen956 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    Jul 10, 2011, 01:05 PM
    Comment on Stratmando's post
    In fact, I know the outlet in question is the last in the series because it only has one black and one white coming in.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #15

    Jul 10, 2011, 01:34 PM

    Apparently you know the route of the wiring. Go back to the last working outlet. Check all neutral connections between it and the no-working GFI. If the little "Quick Connect" holes in the back of the outlets were used, remove the wire and put it under the screws. The "quick connect" connections are known to develop bad connections after a period.

    A pizza says that's your problem.
    wgreen956's Avatar
    wgreen956 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Jul 10, 2011, 02:14 PM
    Comment on hkstroud's post
    IT WORKED!! THANKS!! What's your favorite pizza shop and what do you want?
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #17

    Jul 10, 2011, 05:40 PM

    If the whole house is like that, and you have to every receptacle to insure reliability anyway, you might consider changing to newer Decora Style switches and recepticles, Make a place look much newer, nicer?

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