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    hillbillyjoe's Avatar
    hillbillyjoe Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jul 24, 2010, 12:05 PM
    1996 Honda Civic LX turns over but won't start!!
    I have a 1996 Honda Civic LX standard 1.6L 4cyl 5 speed 108K. It was starting fine, I then took it to the car wash to degrease the engine compartment. After spraying it down the car started and ran for about 20 seconds as I was driving away it shut off. I had to get it towed home. So I went to the parts store and bought new plugs, wires, and cap. Still just turns and turns will not fire up. Any sugestions? Rotor? Coil? Distributor? Timing belt? I walked to the gas station and added a gallon of gas to the tank, that was the first thing I tried. I went to the local parts store and rented a OBD II scanner. It came back with NO error codes. The rotor does turn when cranking. I am going to spray some starting fluid into the throttle body to see if it starts, that will take care of the fuel issue.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Jul 24, 2010, 12:40 PM

    . Leave the hood open and allow everything to dry out.

    . Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    . Remove the distributor cap, spray the inside with WD-40, and wipe out with a soft rag.

    After this, you will be in a better position to assess whether the ECM, alternator, ICM/coil, and sensors were shorted out. Like floodings, these situations can be nasty. On modern-day cars, it's best to spot clean by hand.
    hillbillyjoe's Avatar
    hillbillyjoe Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jul 24, 2010, 03:02 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey - The car had a little bit of a rough idle before I took it and cleaned the motor off. But it started up just fine. So what would cause the rough idle? Maybe whatever it was I damaged at the wash?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Jul 24, 2010, 03:11 PM

    To eliminate rough idle:

    . Clean the Idle Air Control Valve:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1054149

    . Clean the throttle plate and throttle body.

    . Replace PCV Valve.

    . Clean the air box and change the air filter.
    hillbillyjoe's Avatar
    hillbillyjoe Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jul 25, 2010, 06:31 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    . Leave the hood open and allow everything to dry out.

    . Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    . Remove the distributor cap, spray the inside with WD-40, and wipe out with a soft rag.

    After this, you will be in a better position to assess whether the ECM, alternator, ICM/coil, and sensors were shorted out. Like floodings, these situations can be nasty. On modern-day cars, it's best to spot clean by hand.

    I installed new plugs, wires, and cap. I cleaned the sensor on the air box and the airbox itself. New air filter was installed too. I pulled a plug out and put it back in the wire and rested it on the intake valve cover. I cranked it over in a darl gargae and saw no sparks. Does this mean the coil is bad? Coil fuse under dash is good along with all the others.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Jul 25, 2010, 06:45 AM

    If the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is likely distributor related. I would, then, replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

    If you want, first try replacing the coil. These two components affect spark.
    hillbillyjoe's Avatar
    hillbillyjoe Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jul 25, 2010, 06:53 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    If the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is likely distributor related. I would, then, replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

    If you want, first try replacing the coil. These two components affect spark.

    And if the check engine light does not go off after 2 seconds on position II? Main relay? Or Computer?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #8

    Jul 25, 2010, 06:56 AM

    ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, ECM, main relay, or ignition switch. Because of what you did, the fuse and ECM are most likely.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #9

    Jul 25, 2010, 06:57 AM

    So, does the CEL stay on?
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #10

    Jul 25, 2010, 07:00 AM

    Houston, are you there?
    hillbillyjoe's Avatar
    hillbillyjoe Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Jul 25, 2010, 07:30 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    So, does the CEL stay on?
    Yes the check engine light goes off. I hope it's the coil! These ignition parts aren't cheap lol Any other sugestions before I run up to the parts store.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #12

    Jul 25, 2010, 08:32 AM

    Nope. This is likely the most expensive hosing you've had in a while. You are getting off cheap, too, since the ECM appears fine.
    hillbillyjoe's Avatar
    hillbillyjoe Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Jul 25, 2010, 09:11 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Nope. This is likely the most expensive hosing you've had in a while. You are getting off cheap, too, since the ECM appears fine.
    OK I went to the parts store and put all the new parts on. They did not have the ICM so I just got the coil. It starts up better than it ever has. Now the Check engine light blinks! Haha but it seems to be running pretty smooth.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #14

    Jul 25, 2010, 09:16 AM

    You are so lucky! I would attach a code reader again. Afterwards, use the code reader to erase any codes.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #15

    Jul 25, 2010, 09:22 AM

    Ensure the O-ring was installed on the new distributor cap--very important. It's best to coat it with silicone grease.
    hillbillyjoe's Avatar
    hillbillyjoe Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Jul 25, 2010, 09:38 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    You are so lucky! I would attach a code reader again. Afterwards, use the code reader to erase any codes.
    Haha this time I am! No more pressure washing the engine compartment. I'll try the OBD II on Monday that's enough work for today. Thanks for all your help!! :)
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #17

    Jul 25, 2010, 09:43 AM

    Before you leave, try removing the 7.5 Backup Fuse, in the under hood fuse box, for 10 seconds. It may reset the ECM and save you a trip.
    hillbillyjoe's Avatar
    hillbillyjoe Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
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    #18

    Jul 25, 2010, 09:47 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Before you leave, try removing the 7.5 Backup Fuse, in the under hood fuse box, for 10 seconds. It may reset the ECM and save you a trip.
    OK I will do that! Thanks again!
    hillbillyjoe's Avatar
    hillbillyjoe Posts: 23, Reputation: 1
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    #19

    Jul 25, 2010, 04:41 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Before you leave, try removing the 7.5 Backup Fuse, in the under hood fuse box, for 10 seconds. It may reset the ECM and save you a trip.
    Pulled the 7.5 backup fuse the check engine light is off and running smooth now. However the battery light comes on after it runs for about 3-4 minutes and stays on. Does this mean the altenator now? Never ends...
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #20

    Jul 25, 2010, 04:48 PM

    Typically, coils, ICMs, and alternators get fried. After that, ECMs and selected sensors. Check the alternator fuse, again. If the problem persists, have your local auto parts store test the alternator for free.

    You just had to be a clean freak--see what it got you.

    Here's my motto: "Remember, as always, to Stay Greasy." If you had followed that advice, it would have saved you a lot of coin.
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