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    TroopPunk's Avatar
    TroopPunk Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 8, 2010, 08:12 AM
    Laundry standpipe drain overflow - washing machine washer
    I have a Kenmore He3T washer that has worked fine for just over a year. It came with a new drain hose with a 'hard U' for hooking on the standpipe and has had no problems up to this point. For the first time, I accidentally used standard soap (non HE) for about a dozen loads. This is when the problem started.

    When the standpipe originally backed-up, I noticed quite a bit of lint coming up in the water. I also noticed sudsing.

    I have been using HE soap for the past 6 loads and have stopped getting the sudsing and lint, but still get major water overflow. I was hoping the soap switch would fix it. It didn't.

    I then ran my 3/8"x41" plumbing snake down the standpipe. I have 2" plumbing. The standpipe measures 20" to the p-trap, so I know I'm getting past it. A couple feet down the line, there is a 3' tall vent on the pipe (the machine is in an unfinished basement and doesn't vent up through the house to the roof). I have not tried to snake from the vent. That waste line then connects directly to the main out to the city sewer. The total distance of pipe between the laundry box to the 4" main is less than 15' and is on a dedicated line. No other sinks/toilets/showers in the house are having drain issues.

    I've ran the machine through 'clean cycle' without any overflow. I've also ran at standard cycle without soup and clothes without any overflow. The overflow always starts at the spin cycle when I'm using even the most modest amount of HE soap.

    In summary, I've switched soaps, snaked the p-trap, and ran half a dozen test cycles (without overflow)... but still get overflow when I try to do even a modest load of laundry. All my pipe is 2" from the wash and I managed to make it a year without any problems from this washer. Sorry for the long question. I've searched this forumn and have tried everything I've seen suggested.

    Thoughts?
    TP
    Bentzle's Avatar
    Bentzle Posts: 28, Reputation: 6
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    #2

    Jan 8, 2010, 08:28 AM

    Sounds like a venting problem. When I come across this problem, I put a 2" X 11/2" wye in the top of the standpipe, a service 45 in the wye and screw on a mechanical vent. The additional air on the drain seems to do the trick.
    TroopPunk's Avatar
    TroopPunk Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 8, 2010, 08:48 AM
    Any explanation for how it took a year for this problem to show up?

    It seems like I have a standard setup with a fairly popular washer. The machine clearly pushes a lot of gpms, but why no overflow when I test run with no soap or clothes?

    Thanks much!
    TP
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #4

    Jan 8, 2010, 09:13 AM

    Newer machine can pump out the water as fast as a 2" drain and drain it away, faster if it is sudsy. Over time your drain can slowly cathc lint and others scum which will reduce the diameter of the 2" drain, a 3/8" snake will not touch this. You can make a sealed connection between the washer drain hose and the stand pipe using a coupler. How tall is your stand pipe BTW
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 4,006, Reputation: 251
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    #5

    Jan 8, 2010, 09:47 AM
    Like Bob Says the newer machines can pump water faster, also your stand pipe is 20" to the P-trap is not high enough it should be 32" to 36", do as Bob says seal the connection if it will help if not you need to fix your stand see the image below, good luck.

    John
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    TroopPunk's Avatar
    TroopPunk Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jan 8, 2010, 10:52 AM
    thanks for the quick feedback guys...

    Though I greatly appreciate the diagram, it's my understanding that under IRC the Minimum height of a washing machine standpipe above the trap weir is 18" and the maximum height is 42".

    Where is this other standard (Standpipe diameter >=2”, height 30-48” , trap <= 12” above floor), like in your diagram, come from?

    I'm attaching my setup. As you can see, there is a complication in getting my trap to 6" above finished floor... since it would then have to travel upstream to get to the main sewer line.

    TP
    Name:  washer.jpg
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    TroopPunk's Avatar
    TroopPunk Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jan 8, 2010, 10:55 AM
    Also, still looking for suggestions on how it took a year for any issues. Perhaps I just need to have it professionally snaked.

    Is my setup up-to-code?

    TP
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
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    #8

    Jan 8, 2010, 11:41 AM

    Why did it take a year "Over time your drain can slowly catch lint and others scum which will reduce the diameter of the 2" drain, a 3/8" snake will not touch this" Your drawing shows a 36" vent, where is it going to?
    TroopPunk's Avatar
    TroopPunk Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Jan 8, 2010, 12:00 PM
    Thanks Bob. Yeah, I saw the build-up explanation, just curious if there were any others.

    As my first (long) description said, the vent is just 3' of pipe. Doesn't go anywhere... just vented to the open basement.

    If the build-up is the cause of the problem, then I guess I just need to hit it with a power snake. I've never rented one though. What is an appropriate size for 2" drain. What are the chances of there being a problem in the main and it just not affecting the other drains in the house?


    TP
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #10

    Jan 8, 2010, 12:03 PM

    You can't let that vent be open like that, smelly, dangerous, not code, etc... If you can't reach the roof try using an AAV. Renting a sewer rodder is no big deal, the rental guy knows what you need and can be very helpful. I'd make the connection a sealed connection using a coupling before I'd bother rodding.
    TroopPunk's Avatar
    TroopPunk Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Jan 8, 2010, 12:26 PM
    Thanks a ton guys. I'm kind of pissed about the venting. The builder apparently didn't know what he was doing. Glad I never smoked down there!

    I'll post back with a solution when I get it fixed.

    Thanks again,
    TP
    afaroo's Avatar
    afaroo Posts: 4,006, Reputation: 251
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    #12

    Jan 8, 2010, 05:13 PM

    I agree with Bob try the coupling and see if it will fix your problem, Thanks.

    John
    TroopPunk's Avatar
    TroopPunk Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Jan 8, 2010, 06:22 PM

    Thanks John

    I did a little more inspection of the vent and found that both the laundry and kitchen sink are vented with AAVs. I'm in Tennessee and the house was a 1934 Bungalow remodel.

    I obviously don't know much about this stuff... so I want to know if I am in any danger of trying the air-tight coupling approach, seeing as there is a mechanical vent on the line?

    Thanks for the education
    TP

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