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    jon123's Avatar
    jon123 Posts: 240, Reputation: 3
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    #1

    Aug 26, 2009, 06:30 AM
    Sulfur smell in joint compound
    Anybody ever add water for storing after opening joint compound and when reusing it see it turned gray and has a strong rotten egg sulfuric smell? I had this with the 123 step joint compound I bought at a home depot
    Mishka1's Avatar
    Mishka1 Posts: 20, Reputation: -1
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    #2

    Aug 26, 2009, 06:53 AM

    You have mold.
    Add a little bleach and mix well if it's too much to just throw away. Next time, put some plastic wrap right down onto the surface of the compound, trying to remove air pockets, before putting the lid back on. Keeping it in a cool dry place will help keep mold away too. Good luck.
    creahands's Avatar
    creahands Posts: 2,854, Reputation: 195
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    #3

    Aug 26, 2009, 07:14 AM

    I agree with Misha1.

    Before storing, remove compound from sides of pail above plastic covering. This will minimize lumps.

    Before using mix with electric mixing blade at slow speed.

    Good luck

    Chuck
    jon123's Avatar
    jon123 Posts: 240, Reputation: 3
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    #4

    Aug 26, 2009, 08:01 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Mishka1 View Post
    You have mold.
    Add a little bleach and mix well if it's too much to just throw away. Next time, put some plastic wrap right down onto the surface of the compound, trying to remove air pockets, before putting the lid back on. Keeping it in a cool dry place will help keep mold away too. Good luck.
    I used this once and did store it with the pastic wrap that came with it.. I used common tap water and stored it in the garage.. been less than a month and only used about a gallon.. still got mold and will try a 10% bleach to water in a spray bottle just to see if it works, ty for reply
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #5

    Aug 27, 2009, 09:38 PM

    Hi Jon123.

    Been there before. Since the late 80s we add 4 to 5 tablespoons of Joy dish detergent to a 5 gal compound bucket.

    One it helps keep the bubbles out when smoothing the compound and also helps stop the bacteria from a bucket sitting a spell.
    jon123's Avatar
    jon123 Posts: 240, Reputation: 3
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    #6

    Aug 29, 2009, 06:59 AM

    I will try that too boat! Thank you! Hey on topic, I bought me one of those vacuum sanders comes with 6 ft of hose and might benefit the small patch jobs I do.. I've yet to try it, I imagine by my own experience that a regular pad/stick sanding makes it smoother as apposed to wet sponge sanding larger patch work. The thing I always tried to avoid though is the dang dust so, this hand sander might be just the ticket for those small jobs.. it hooks up to a shopvac Anybody here ever try the vacuum pad sander yet?
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #7

    Aug 29, 2009, 10:58 AM

    Hi jon123

    Owned one since the earlier 90s. Best thing for rehab. Your going to love it.

    This will blow you away. In the 90s I was on a Large commercial Job building a HUGE Hospital / Health Campus. ( Aces )

    One night working there I was finishing a doctors suite and water was dripping out of the ceiling. The G.C. hired a concrete company to diamond grind down some slight rises in the concrete deck above.

    They were using water to keep the dust down and it dripped through the conc/steel deck. The J.C. asked me If I knew of a way to do this without water. I said maybe. I bought 5 shop vacs. Hooked there hose into a large hose manifold for huge CFMS.

    I then remembered in the 80s when the "rainbow" vac came out and it used water to collect dust, no bag.

    I also remembered many years after that they came out with a small bucket with a lid and holes in it you filled with water and hooked the dryer hose to it to catch lint.

    Did the same principle with those shop vacs and kept the filters in also. Went through a good amount of filters But worked great.


    Any how you will love the results on what you bought. I do a lot of commercial/res rehap and used what you bought many many times.
    jon123's Avatar
    jon123 Posts: 240, Reputation: 3
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    #8

    Aug 29, 2009, 05:50 PM

    Good deal boat! Just did a 1st coat repair and can't wait to use it next week, the lady customer was concermed about sanding/dust in the kids room.. it is only a small wall repair but I explained I use a vacuum sander! Lol one thing on Amazon rating forum was that I should use a paper bag filter as opposed to the regular cloth filter.. but this is so small a job I could actually get by just a sponge sander.. I'm still going to see how this works.. everybody like you said it is a great tool. Wish I invented it lol thank you again boat
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #9

    Aug 29, 2009, 08:42 PM

    Hi jon. Let me give you another system I set up to clean out a 1 or 3 story re hap.

    I did a big pointing job on a plumbing warehouse. It was a big old building. 11,000 sq ft walls. We were grinding for over a month The dust got in the whole warehouse, wooden floors open post and beam.

    I thought what comes in on air can leave on air.

    I ended up using big attic fans to clean all the floors. Set two fans in a windows and used a leaf blower to re suspend the dust up. Worked Perfect. Cleaner then when they originally moved in. 2 days cleaned out 45,00 sq ft 2 men. Move fans to diff. windows and opened diff windows areas.

    I now do this to clean up a gut and stud re hap after all the drywall work is done. I can do all 3 floors 1 hr. It works so well NO DUST on site. It also takes care of that oops forget to suck out the electric boxes / dust over door header trim etc. Just thought I share that. P.S. make sure the neighbors laundry is in and there windows closed. It looks like the building is on fire. My new hire laughed at me and then was amazed how Quick all was perfectly clean. He said his old boss shop vac for hours.

    Keep it mind. Drywall dust is a pain on filters and yes I use a bag filter over my finned filter. That will cut down on a little suction but really filters the dust.
    jon123's Avatar
    jon123 Posts: 240, Reputation: 3
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    #10

    Sep 5, 2009, 05:18 PM

    Yes boat, this works great and not only keeping it clean.. this one swivels and substantially quicker and smoother lsanding. I know the fine compound dust quickly clogs the wet vac bags but it is worth the tradeoff.. I just returned from a four day solo fishing camper in nys.. I'm looking forward for my small practice picking up after labor day.One thing is certain in this economy is that home improvements will always be needed. Thank you once again for helping me serve those who hire me too!
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #11

    Sep 5, 2009, 09:12 PM

    Yes the wet bags does cost but think of the blow by of dust you can't see coming out the shop vac exhaust, By the time you noticed that the whole room/house is toast in micro dust.

    thank you once again for helping me serve those who hire me too!
    Jon123. I'm getting up there a bit in years and passing along 33 years of knowledge working in the trades is very important. Not many coming up behind us older fellas. When we go so is all the old tricks/knowledge

    REAL tradesmen are hard to find. We are dying dinosaurs

    We all need to stick together and build this country one piece at a time.
    jon123's Avatar
    jon123 Posts: 240, Reputation: 3
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    #12

    Sep 6, 2009, 06:04 PM

    I understand what you mean boat, these kids on puters and chip phones would never work from the bottom up given the option. I have worked over 25yrs in residential home improvements.. filled many dumpsters and labored many years helping builders and renovators and learned a great deal working with all tradesman. I work alone as a self imployed licensed handyman in northern New Jersey. I'm still learning both old and new techniques.. what is it they say.. "Ajack of all trades and a master of none" I for one enjoy the challenge but I do believe I know enough not to bother taking on more than I can to complete any project. I use to subcontract bigger jobs like whole roof/siding jobs but I like staying small these days. I do plan on eventually seeking steadier work for this winter with health benefits but for now ,I like keeping it simple and sometimes smaller is better. You get in and out fast but the problem is getting enough in these poor economic times. Okay, Boat,you are good people and glad to know you and you can be sure I will be dropping in again lol peace and best of times going forward!
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #13

    Sep 6, 2009, 10:03 PM

    Stay Small. That got my business through the 79 era recession. I'm fortunate because we do it all in house and keep busy. Most of my guys are multi tradesman and good mechanical skills. We don't official have a laborer. We completely work together as a team.

    I had a young Sega labor last year and he wimped out. I told him he was nuts. The 8 months he worked for me we put in some Boilers together. Poured Crete walks. Ran dump trucks and gave him time on the crawler loader and backhoe. Did a 3 story re hap gut and stud from studding to heat plant/wiring/flooring/roofing. He was stupid for quitting. I'm a very fair Boss and WANT to teach and have a better skilled employee..
    jon123's Avatar
    jon123 Posts: 240, Reputation: 3
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    #14

    Sep 7, 2009, 07:57 AM

    Boat, I know where you are coming from, I worked for a few reputable general contractors in the past and respect and appreciate all that I have learned from them bosses. I could call them up for possible emplyment during winters harder times but as it was a decade or so ago when times were booming, it still even then slowed down enough a few winter months every year for the boss to put us on unemployment. I know it is a good idea to have about three big renovation projects to get by during the winter too. I wouldn't mind laboring for the same boss again but last I heard he had a couple of mexicans be they illegal or not, I doubt I care to compete with their wages.. as it is, I'm content being my own boss especially these days. Okay boat, I have another question but it is best to start it on a new topic! " IS IT WORTH THE EFFORT TO CLEAN MOLD OFF SHINGLED ROOFS? "see you there my friend!
    debraarandatoledo's Avatar
    debraarandatoledo Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    Apr 25, 2010, 01:25 PM
    A contractor in a house we are going to rent/buy is using this compound made with Sulpher... will the smell go away? I hope so, it smells like a whole bunch of cat poop!! Seriously, what can I do? Please someone!!
    debraarandatoledo's Avatar
    debraarandatoledo Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Apr 25, 2010, 01:25 PM
    A contractor in a house we are going to rent/buy is using this compound made with Sulpher... will the smell go away? I hope so, it smells like a whole bunch of cat poop!! Seriously, what can I do? Please someone!!
    debraarandatoledo's Avatar
    debraarandatoledo Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Apr 25, 2010, 01:25 PM
    A contractor in a house we are going to rent/buy is using this compound made with Sulpher... will the smell go away? I hope so, it smells like a whole bunch of cat poop!! Seriously, what can I do? Please someone!!

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