There is a crack and slow leak in the iron sewer line as it exits through the basement wall. All the rest of the pipe inside the house, except this 18" section, has been replaced with PVC. Other than this crack there are no drainage issues. The house is 75 years old. Obviously this section of pipe needs to be replaced.

My concern is what to expect on the outside. The sewer line exits the house near the top of the basement wall and is probably about 2 feet below grade at that point. The iron pipe continues thru the brick wall to the outside of the house . . . beyond that, I don't know how far the iron pipe goes. I have no idea if there is a joint in the pipe once it is outside. I don't know how long the crack is either. I can dig and look . . . .

Replacing any more than about 4' of the outside sewer line is a problem for several reasons. First, money is a huge issue right now. Secondly, and equally problematic is the location of both hardscape and landscape. I realize that replacing or re-lining the pipe all the way to the street would probably be the "correct" solution, especially for the long term.. . But, if that isn't an option right now.. . What do I do? What is involved in replacing the pipe? Is there an interim fix that will at least get the problem beyond the basement wall and out of my house? Any opinions?

Replacing sewer line is a big project. We had a poster here two days ago who got estimate of $13,500.00 for relining 75' of his main sewer line. So it is not cheap,either. Then, you will have to deal with fixing landscaping.

Since money is tight these days, I would concentrate only on replacing the section of pipe that needs to be replaced so you stop the sewer leak. You can do it yourself. Materials is cheap and can be purchased in Home Depot. You can do the work yourself. We can lead you through the repair...

Otherwise, get Video Inspection first. Watch the monitor while technician does the inspection. Ask lots of questions. Question every imperfection you see in the sewer. Ask him to record entire inspection on DVD / CD so you can show it to other experts for second opinion. Then, get at east 3 estimates. Negotiate. Sewer replacement is all about labor, not materials. So price can be easily negotiated, especially now, when lots of companies are hungry for work. Make your decision accordingly...

Good luck... and come back to let us know how you did... Milo

OH2,
So if you can yourself replace or repair the cracked pipe outside foundation wall, will that solve whatever is making you undertake this task? If stopping the leakage near foundation is just your own desire, perhaps you can simply force a slightly smaller diameter PVC pipe section through the existing Cast Iron pipe; usually older homes had rather large diameter pipes, so a 4 inch PVC section may fit inside the CIP solving the immediate leakage and still provide enough flow capacity for a typical single-family residence. But you should also make sure any joint/connection outside is fitted/sealed to the new PVC pipe. Given the shallow 2 ft depth and usually iron pipe changes to Vitrified Clay within short distance from foundation (likely within 4 ft), can you then just leave the yard-to-street-sewer pipe alone? Likely there exists a simple Bell and Spigot type joint between each nominal pipe section length; often older pipe sections just abutted and were wrapped with tar-paper. TV inspection can cost thousands dollars alone, and "by itself" would only be useful to verify existing pipe alignment and depths for "estimating complete excavation/replacement work". A contractor who combines TV Inspection with localized repair (slip-lining or pressure grouting) may be practical solution (check first for reputable TV-repair contractors). Also do you have to get building permit for any of this work, especially exterior sewer runs? If so this may force you to hire a licensed contractor. Usually new (replacement) house-to-street sewer lines must have clean outs installed; check with local building codes.

I guess I should start by excavating the pipe where it exits the house and see what sort of "stuff" is out there.. . Am I looking for find where there is a joint or connection to the main line to the street? From what I'm reading it sounds like the iron pipe isn't what typically extends all the way to the street.. . Something I didn't know (one of the many things I don't know!)

I actually did call a plumber who came and looked at the pipe in the basement while I was a work. He did not look at anything outside. He simply said he intended to bring in a backhoe and replace everything to the street because it is "old" and "that's how we do it". The actual sewer line works just fine it is just the split in the bottom of the iron pipe that is the problem. I can't afford to replace the entire line or my walkway and parking pad, my stone walls, and my landscaping that would be destroyed in the process.

Anyhow, once I figure out what I'm actually dealing with will someone here be able to suggest how to make the actual repair? I would be happy to do this myself but even if I hire it done, I want to be informed enough to only make the "necessary" repairs.

(Not sure how to ask a second related question.. . I saw something about using EDIT icon, but I couldn't figure out how to do that even after reading through the HELP section! Hopefully my plumbing ability exceeds my techno skills)

It depends: once your Cast Iron pipe exits house, it may turn into Clay.

For now, I would suggest that you go outside, excavate and expose about 10' of existing sewer pipe. Inspect it. Chances are it is not cracked all the way. It may be cracked only where it penetrates foundation caused by the constant pressure of the foundation on the pipe. Cut off the pipe on the inside in the basement and outside in the trench. Remove the pipe.

Usually, sewer pipe is not encased in concrete foundation so you should be able to remove it. If it is, you will have to chip out larger hole so you can insert new pipe through the same hole. Insert new pipe, connect with Fernco coupling on both sides.

OK, I can only expose the line about 4 foot from the house and then there is a stone wall and a paved parking pad. Hopefully that 4' distance will be adequate to resolve my issues. If the iron pipe extends beyond that point an is still cracked is it possible to splice the line and only replace the pipe to that juncture? If necessary, can I attach a coupling to a cracked pipe without damaging it further or breaking it? That would at least get the leak outside for now and then at a later date I could see about having the pipe re-lined. . Something that is impossible at the moment.

The pipe is not encased in any concrete where it exits the house. The basement wall is just double wall brick and there is a significant opening around the pipe that actually needed to be sealed.. . Something I never got around to doing.

I'm glad to know what kind of couplings to purchase.. . I assume that Home Depot has Fernco couplings. Are the fittings for interior and exterior applications the same? Detaching the pipe inside is not an issue because it has already been cut and is currently connected to the PVC with a black flexible fitting and clamps.

This may sound stupid, but how do cut the outside iron pipe? I'm clueless on this one.

Thanks SO much for all your help!

4' is fine. I hope you are skinny since you will have small place to work in.:D

If it is Cast Iron pipe - and since it is in deteriorated state - you want to be very careful with cutting it. Use 4" grinder with 4" diamond blade in it. Expose pipe all the way around the place where you plan to cut. Cut carefully. IMPORTANT: WEAR GOOD GLOVES AND GOGGLES ! Try to cut it all the way around. Maintain solid grip on the grinder at ALL times. Don't let go a bit. If you would use hammer to chip it off - you may crack the pipe under the slab.

Grinder cost $45.00 and diamond wheel will run you about $25.00. You can also rent it for few bucks from Home Depot if you don't want to expend your tool collection with tool you use once in 20 years.

Depending on in what shape is your old C.I. pipe, you could also use Sawzall with special blade for CI. However, if it is old pipe, vibrations may damage the pipe even further.

You are lucky you have hole large enough to accept new pipe.

I am enclosing photo of Fernco coupling you want to use. Yes, Home Depot carries it in drain fittings department.

When all is ready to be installed and old pipe is removed, do this:

1. Measure exactly the void in your sewer pipe
2. Cut that section of pipe, less 1"
3. Spray WD 40 on both ends of the new pipe
4. Loosen 2 s.s bands on the Flex Seal couplings and Slip Flex seal coupling on each end - ALL the way over the pipe
5. Put pipe inside the hole
6. Go inside, slip coupling 1/2 way over the old pipe, tighten with 9/16" socket driver
7. Go to the outside and do the same on the other end.

Since you have your sewer exposed, I would suggest that you install clean out on the outside. But that is optional.

View the enclosed clip. Notice how dangerous it is to cut Cast Iron with Grinder. The fella in the clip has removed the safety guard from his grinder. He made it even more dangerous...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrdPA...e=channel_page

Good Luck... Milo

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Yep, pretty skinny! Too skinny.. .

I have a Bosch Sawzall, but I plan to pop for the grinder. As I was reading I was wondering about the "grinder" and then in the next sentence you answered that too. Thanks for all your answers.

I do know about old iron pipes. I have another old house in that was built in 1915 with 4 additions and it had a huge old iron pipe, a stack of some sort, that was no longer being used. In a remodeling project it needed to be removed.. . It took one whack with a 6 lb sledge hammer and it literally disintegrated. Also learned a lesson in my first house when I tried to remove the iron trap on my old drainboard sink to recover something that went down the drain by mistake.. . That lesson-in-life was my first significant plumbing repair bill because that old iron pipe leaked everywhere once it was tampered with had to be replaced in its entirety. That's why I asked how to cut this pipe!

I posted link of video clip showing a plumber Cutting Cast Iron...

If you have "healthy" cast iron pipe, you use chain cutter. However, if the pipe is old, chain cutter will smash the pipe in pieces. Grinder will give you more control over cutting...

Thanks for the video. I watched it. Hopefully my hole in the ground will be less confining than his space!

If I install a clean-out is there an actual PVC clean-out part that I buy and then piece into the new sewer line? If so, do I extend it up to the surface or bury it and just know where it is located? Sorry to ask so many questions.

I can't thank you enough. You have been incredibly helpful and didn't talk over my head.

You have 4' of space in the trench. You exit the house with 24" of pipe, than glue in 4" COMBY ( pic 1 ) with the flow and pointing upwards. On top, you glue it 4" Threaded Female Adaptor ( pic 2 ) and cover it with 4" square plug ( pic 3 ). All fittings can be purchased in Home Depot ( ABS or PVC ).

( Sorry, photos are not to scale when compared to each other... )

If you have taller plants in that area, you can extend the clean out pipe few inches above the ground. It will be covered by vegetation. If it is in open space and in full view, you can terminate this clean out couple of inches bellow the ground and remember where it is.

Also, I am enclosing sketch of your sewer replacement / clean out installation project.

Don't hesitate to ask questions...

Glad to be of help... Milo

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I'm off to the Depot. Thanks again. I would gladly give you positive feedback because you were incredibly helpful, but I don't know how to do it and all the rate this answer icons are on the posts that I made, not on yours.
I'll let you know how everything turns out and if I'm successful in this undertaking. Interestingly, I do feel pretty "in the know" and given the fact that I was floundering and clueless 24 hours ago this is a terrific turn of events. Catch you later!

To rate a responder: just click on the Orange rectangle saying "Rate This Answer" and rate it. Thank you...

I think I've been hitting the "Submit Answer" button and somehow screwing up the sequence. I have never used this site before last night and so I'm not too adept at the mechanics of it. Send me another message and lets see it I get an orange rectangle. Like I said, all the rectangles are on my questions rather than your replies. If it you never see any rating from me it isn't because you don't deserve one. You should get an award!

You really make me work for it... :-D

Under each of the response is an orange box that says: "Rate This Answer". Click on it and it will open rating system. Rate as you wish...

( do not click on the photo I have enclosed. It is only to show you where to locate the rating box... )

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