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    561packrat's Avatar
    561packrat Posts: 80, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #1

    Apr 3, 2009, 06:38 PM
    Engine quit suddenly while driving, '90 Ford F-150
    While driving to the grocery store tonight , my "90 F-150 abruptly quit running. As far as electrical all seems well, engine will crank, lights (headlamps, instrument) work, no warning, running adequately one second, then dead. Quarter tank of gas. Had to leave it, too dark, no flashlight. When I look at it in the morning , is there something I should check that fails this way, fuse, fusible link, ignition brain, etc? Unemployed , hoping it's a bailing wire fix. Thanks in advance, Ken
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #2

    Apr 3, 2009, 08:27 PM

    . Test all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    . Test for codes.

    . Test for spark. If none, replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S__ignition___

    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S__ignition___

    The most likely culprit is the ICM, which I recommend replacing every 120,000 miles or 10 years. ICMs get destroyed by heat and can suddenly die (so can coils). 90%+ of "crank but won't start" situations are electrical-related, not fuel.

    . Test for fuel. Do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run, when you turn the ignition switch to ON? Have you changed the fuel filter in the last 30,000 miles?
    561packrat's Avatar
    561packrat Posts: 80, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #3

    Apr 3, 2009, 08:41 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey View Post
    . Test all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    . Test for spark. If none, replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

    Ignition Module/Control - Advance Auto Parts

    Ignition Coil - Advance Auto Parts

    The most likely culprit is the ICM, which I recommend replacing every 120,000 miles or 10 years. ICMs get destroyed by heat.

    . Test for fuel. Do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run, when you turn the ignition switch to ON? Have you changed the fuel filter in the last 30,000 miles?
    Thanks TXGreasemonkey, the tests you suggested sound like a task I could do. I was trying to hear the pump, but there was a lot of background noise where the truck was parked and I couldn't hear it. The fuel filter was replaced about 2,000 miles back. I'll test the spark and the fuses tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks, again
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #4

    Apr 3, 2009, 08:45 PM

    Remember, even if you have spark, the ICM can be bad. It can fire but not when the ECM really wants it to; hence, spark but the engine doesn't start. I would replace both the ICM and coil, neither of which are expensive on your truck.

    Many underhood fuses on trucks get awfully corroded and dirty. If a fuse doesn't work, remove it and clean it with steel wool or abrasive cloth. Look in your Owner's Manual for the location of the underhood fuel relay, if you don't hear the pump run. Remove it and clean the 5-pin connector, if necessary.
    561packrat's Avatar
    561packrat Posts: 80, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #5

    Apr 3, 2009, 08:51 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey View Post
    Remember, even if you have spark, the ICM can be bad. It can fire but not when the ECM really wants it to; hence, spark but the engine doesn't start. I would replace both the ICM and coil, neither of which are expensive on your truck.

    Many underhood fuses on trucks get awfully corroded and dirty. If a fuse doesn't work, remove it and clean it with steel wool or abrasive cloth. Look in your Owner's Manual for the location of the underhood fuel relay, if you don't hear the pump run. Remove it and clean the 5-pin connector, if necessary.
    Will do, thanks again, packrat

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