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    cdelao's Avatar
    cdelao Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Sep 22, 2008, 04:02 PM
    Replace water-damaged flooring under kitchen sink
    Hi,

    I had a leak under my kitchen sink. It damaged the under-sink wood flooring until it sunk (warped) four or five inches down. Then it leaked through the hot water pipe hole and into my unfinished basement. I cut out a hole under the sink, using a jigsaw, and I don't see any water damage underneath. I think that it must have just drained through to the basement and I have no worries there.

    But I need to replace the under-sink flooring with a flat board. Is there a way to knock out or cut out that board and replace it with a new one? I see that there are staples around the front of the board, above the kick-board. But I don't know how the sides of the board are attached. I'm afraid that maybe the under-cabinet flooring is one big piece extending over to the cabinets on each side of the sink. How can I replace that one warped section?

    I hope this makes sense.

    cdelao
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #2

    Sep 22, 2008, 05:21 PM
    Is it real important to you that the replacement be flush with the old floor, can it sit on top of the bad floor?
    cdelao's Avatar
    cdelao Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Sep 23, 2008, 11:06 AM
    "Is it real important to you that the replacement be flush with the old floor, can it sit on top of the bad floor?"


    My first choice is that the new floor be flush, but if that turns out to be monumental (e.g. removing my countertop and cabnitry), then I'll go for not-flush.

    Thanks!
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #4

    Sep 23, 2008, 01:08 PM
    I should have asked more details, is that section of the floor visible or not. If its not visible just cut near/along all 4 sides and revoe the old. Now make a template out of cardboard so you can cut yourself a piece of plywood to fill the void slightly larger filling the whole area. The old edge becomes the new anchoring point.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #5

    Sep 23, 2008, 04:01 PM
    Cdelao...

    The floor of the cabinet does not connect to the floor of the other cabinets so, as Ballengerb1 suggested, you can take a jigsaw or similar tool and cut along the perimeter of the floor without affecting cabinet(s) or countertop (stay a couple inches in from walls of cabinet).

    Then you can make a template using cardboard (Ballengerb1's suggestion... ;) ) and cut new floor. And then if you want too, you can take some 1"x4" stock pine and cut to length so that you can install under the old floor. The idea here is to span the cut out so that you are longer and can attach the wood through the old floor using screws...

    Then just drop new piece in and screw it off as in my picture below...

    Red line represents cut you make.
    Blue represents cut pine you lay flat and screw through old floor to catch the pine
    White is new floor
    Orange is old floor
    Black dots are screws

    That feels better... I was having attachment withdrawal guys! Cdelao... I couldn't post pics. Or attachments for a couple days due to site updates... kinda missed it more than I thought I would!

    Let us know if all makes sense...

    MARK
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    cdelao's Avatar
    cdelao Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Sep 26, 2008, 10:10 AM
    Thank you! That helps a lot.

    I'm just now getting to work on it today, as I've been working a lot...

    One more problem. How do I account for the two holes for the kitchen sink water pipes?

    Thanks again.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #7

    Sep 26, 2008, 10:19 AM
    Use that jigsaw and notch the wood around the pipe. If necessary may need to cut the floor so cut is at the holes and then span under cabinet floor with even more wood to button all up.

    Hope that made sense...

    MARK

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