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    tav's Avatar
    tav Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    May 18, 2008, 12:21 PM
    Fixtures at wall water line to toilet
    The flexible hose that connects the water line to the toilet tank broke. It is soldered on to the T-connector, making its replacement a little difficult. I turned off water to toilet and the main water line and started to loosen the T-connector nut to no avail. I then tried to loosen the nut that attaches to the copper water pipe from the wall. Thing I could get it off that way. It was tight, but then budged and now the problem is that it turns freely counter and counterclockwise without loosening or tightening. For reference, my set-up is similar to this picture except of course the line to the tank is soldered and not independently replaceable. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/attach...tershutoff.jpg
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #2

    May 18, 2008, 12:45 PM
    We need a picture of what you're attempting to tell us. What's a "Tee connector"? Where does it fit in to a supply line? I've never seen a tank supply that was soldered. Can you be more specific about where the solder joint was? All the toilet supplies I've ever seen have used compression fittings. We really need a picture. Regards, Tom
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #3

    May 18, 2008, 12:51 PM
    These are compression fittings. You have to hold one end (the valve) with a wrench and loosen the nut on the line. When the nut clears the fitting, it should be free.

    At this point I suspect that corrosion is holding it in place. Once the nut is loose, you should be able to twist and pull the valve off.

    Can you post a picture, especially of the "T" connector. Use "Go advanced" to do so.
    tav's Avatar
    tav Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    May 18, 2008, 02:22 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1
    We need a picture of what you're attempting to tell us. What's a "Tee connector"? Where does it fit in to a supply line? I've never seen a tank supply that was soldered. Can you be more specific about where the solder joint was? All the toilet supplies I've ever seen have used compression fittings. we really need a picture. Regards, Tom

    Thank you Tom for such prompt attention. I am sorry that my terms are not accurate. My problem is pretty basic and I have attached a picture (I hope) that clarifies my situation. (the picture is not in perfect focus, sorry). As you may be able to tell, I am remodeling my bathroom and the 16 year old line to the tank broke off as I was reattaching the toilet tank. It appears to be soldered on to the fitting and not removable with a simple nut. I just do not know how to get the fixture(s) off so I can get a replacement.
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    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #5

    May 18, 2008, 04:16 PM
    The "T" connector is an "angle stop". Looks like your right that the "supply tube" is an integral part. It looks like the grey part is just a tube to make things look nice.

    I'll bet if you pull on the "T connector" it would expose some copper pipe.

    Hole your "T connector" with a wrench. Place another wrench on the nut and push downward.

    Your replacement will probably be two piece. A 1/4 turn 5/8 compression to 3/8 compression angle stop. 5/8 compression fits 1/2" copper tubing.

    Then you can use braided toilet supply tube with a 3/8 compression fitting on the angle stop end.

    Once the threads are completely exposed twist the " copper tubing.

    Then you can use braided toilet supply tube with a 3/8 compression fitting on the angle stop end.

    Once the threads are completely exposed twist the " connector and pull.

    I suspect your not holding the " connector and pull.

    I suspect your not holding the "
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #6

    May 18, 2008, 04:17 PM
    Hey TAV:

    Actually, KISS told you how to remove this !

    You want to shut water off to the house and then use two pair of pliers or a crescent wrench and pliers and loosen the nut off the shutoff.

    Then want to get a 5/8" compression x 3/8" compression ANGLE shutoff at local home supply store.

    If lucky, can use old nut and compression sleeve... but most likely will need to remove the old nut and sleeve and install a new nut and sleeve (comes with new shutoff). Then install new shutoff, compression sleeve and nut (tighten hand tight plus a turn or so).

    They make a handle puller/compression sleeve removal tool... see pic. Below. You should purchse this in case you need to remove the old sleeve and nut.

    Then you want to purchase a new FLEXIBLE closet supply (3/8" compression x 7/8' compression x 12" closet supply) and connect from the shutoff to toilet tank.

    This should fix you all up here... let us know what you think... MARK

    Hey KISS... we posted at same time... ;) Good answer as usual!
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    tav Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    May 20, 2008, 03:26 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by massplumber2008
    Hey TAV:

    Actually, KISS told you how to remove this !!

    You want to shut water off to the house and then use two pair of pliers or a crescent wrench and pliers and loosen the nut off the shutoff.

    Then want to get a 5/8" compression x 3/8" compression ANGLE shutoff at local home suppy store.

    If lucky, can use old nut and compression sleeve...but most likely will need to remove the old nut and sleeve and install a new nut and sleeve (comes with new shutoff). Then install new shutoff, compression sleeve and nut (tighten hand tight plus a turn or so).

    They make a handle puller/compression sleeve removal tool....see pic. below. You should purchse this in case you need to remove the old sleeve and nut.

    Then you want to purchase a new FLEXIBLE closet supply (3/8" compression x 7/8' compression x 12" closet supply) and connect from the shutoff to toilet tank.

    This should fix you all up here...let us know what you think...MARK

    Hey KISS...we posted at same time...;) Good answer as usual!!
    Hey Mark and KeepitsimpleStupid,

    You guys are great! I am sure glad I found this sight. I got this problem fixed up in about 10 min once I bought some better socket wrenches and loosened everything up. I even replaced the original compression nut (with no leaks). The braided closet supply is really the only way to go with this set-up. It's too bad the original builder of my home used such poor fixtures. Thanks again!
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    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #8

    May 20, 2008, 06:46 PM
    Thanks for the update! Great news!
    tav's Avatar
    tav Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    May 26, 2008, 02:43 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by tav
    Hey Mark and KeepitsimpleStupid,

    You guys are great! I am sure glad I found this sight. I got this problem fixed up in about 10 min once I bought some better socket wrenches and loosened everything up. I even replaced the original compression nut (with no leaks). The braided closet supply is really the only way to go with this set-up. It's too bad the original builder of my home used such poor fixtures. Thanks again!

    I spoke too soon. I did install the replacement fittings for this problem, but my remodeling efforts kept me from putting my toilet tank back on. I just did, and am getting a leak at the angle stop (or so it seems). I tightened things pretty hard. The new angle stop had a compression ring on the 3/8 nut to the closet supply, but I did not see how to use this as the flexible tube hose has a washer in it at the 3/8 nut. I guess that is my problem. I would appreciate some more advice here. Thanks!
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #10

    May 26, 2008, 04:01 PM
    Hey Tav:

    My guess here is that you may have actually overtightened the 3/8" compression nut.

    You were correct in NOT using the brass ferrule (compression ring)... so that will not be the issue here.

    The new 3/8" compression nut (from the new flexible toilet riser) should have been hand tightened plus a full turn or two...but you did not want to cinch it down tightly!! In fact, if overtightened to extreme can separate from the angle shutoff completely!!

    You also have a packing nut at the new shutoff...after opening fully give that packing nut a cinch down to keep from leaking in the future!

    You may also want to double check the joints ABOVE the 3/8" compression nut... SOMETIMES small leak from above shows up at the bottom nut... so take a piece of toilet paper and wrap it around the upper part of the closet riser and see if it gets wet.. if it does... problem is actually at the upper nut.

    Anyway, sounds like you overtightened nut to me... and now you need to purchase A NEW Flexible closet riser... :(

    Let me know what you think here TAV... MARK

    .
    tav's Avatar
    tav Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    May 27, 2008, 12:36 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by massplumber2008
    Hey Tav:

    My guess here is that you may have actually overtightened the 3/8" compression nut.

    You were correct in NOT using the brass ferrule (compression ring)...so that will not be the issue here.

    The new 3/8" compression nut (from the new flexible toilet riser) should have been hand tightened plus a full turn or two...but you did not want to cinch it down tightly!! In fact, if overtightened to extreme can separate from the angle shutoff completely!!

    You also have a packing nut at the new shutoff...after opening fully give that packing nut a cinch down to keep from leaking in the future!

    You may also want to double check the joints ABOVE the 3/8" compression nut...SOMETIMES small leak from above shows up at the bottom nut...so take a piece of toilet paper and wrap it around the upper part of the closet riser and see if it gets wet..if it does....problem is actually at the upper nut.

    Anyway, sounds like you overtightened nut to me...and now you need to purchase A NEW Flexible closet riser...:(

    Let me know what you think here TAV...MARK

    .
    Thanks... again Mark. I am feeling really STUPID about this trivial problem. I returned the Flexible closet riser in exchange for a new one. Before I installed it, I checked for any leaks BEFORE the 3/8 nut. I used a bowl to catch water after turning it on; no leaks. I do not detect leaks ABOVE the 3/8 nut either. Now, being sure not to over tighten the new 3/8 nut, I installed the flexi hose. However, water sprays from BETWEEN the 3/8 nut and the crimp on the hose. You can tell I am not a plumber. What gives?
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #12

    May 27, 2008, 01:38 PM
    Did you not use the compression ring and ferrule that came with the new angle stop like you were supposed to? Just connect the hose.
    tav's Avatar
    tav Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    May 27, 2008, 02:07 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid
    Did you not use the compression ring and ferrule that came with the new angle stop like you were supposed to? Just connect the hose.
    I did use the compression ring on the angle stop at the copper pipe from the wall, if that is what you mean. Obviously, I had to use that one. The angle stop did come with a 3/8 nut and compression ring, but the flexible hose has a 3/8 nut on it already. I do not see how I could use that smaller compression ring in the hook-up to the hose. Was I suppose to?

    "You were correct in NOT using the brass ferrule (compression ring)...so that will not be the issue here". From Massplumber2008

    Thanks for the reply KISS.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #14

    May 27, 2008, 02:17 PM
    Well, there is another possibility since you tightened it real tight. Look very carefully for a hairline crack in the fitting. They are hard to spot, but I think it might be there.
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    tav Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    May 27, 2008, 04:54 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid
    Well, there is another possibility since you tightened it real tight. Look very carefully for a hairline crack in the fitting. They are hard to spot, but I think it might be there.

    Once again... thanks guys! It is complete, finally. I just had to tighten down the 3/8 nut on the hose, leak stopped. I guess there was confusion on what is tight or not tight. Anyway, I am ready for my next project (hint, look for more questions :cool: ). Thanks again
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #16

    May 27, 2008, 05:09 PM
    Tight is no more than 1-1/2 turns past finger tight.

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